The biggest recent event was of course Song Kran, a wonderful festival held every year in the second week of April to celebrate the Thai New Year.

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This year I was happy to enjoy both the madness of the free-for-all waterfight, that the festival has become in Chiang Mai, and a mildly less crazy version in a village in Lamphun.

Having already got many photos from 3 previous Song Kran Festivals I was not prepared to risk my camera in the city madness. But with the cafe closed Boon and I were free to go and join in the fun.

In Chiang Mai, untroubled by the protests down in Bangkok and other places, the waterplay around the moat kicked off proper on Sunday the 12th. With certain matters having got me a bit stressed out I was not in such a mood to join in but we did go down for a look see.

The next day, however, I woke up determined to put the stress to one side, (when you have a problem that has no immediate solution, whats the point stressing?), and just before midday we headed off to the moat for full participation.

It was a great atmosphere this year. Indeed I think that the slightly reduced crowd made it more enjoyable. Last year I spent very little time around the moat because of the massive numbers of people giving very little space to swing your water bucket.

This year was much better, still lots of players , but more space to move around freely.

Boon and I bought simple tube water guns with large backpack water tanks, which we wickedly added ice to every time we refilled.We had lots of fun walking round and round Thapae Gate and up and down Moonmuang, spraying unsuspecting soles with that icey water. By 5pm we’d had enough and returned home to dry off before the sun went down and the cold of our soaked clothes really set in.

The next day, setting off at around the same time we headed once again to our favourite spot at the left side of  Thapae Gate(from Ratchadamnoen).

Thapae Gate was as usual set up with many snack food stalls, an area that acts not only as a refueling station for hungry travelers, but also as a minor safe haven from the surrounding battle.

Just settling in to more water jousting, we suddenly spotted Roz and some of the kids from the Childrens Home, on the quieter ‘Old City’ side of the moat. Roz explained that it had been a bit of a last minute descision to bring the kids in. We met Tyler, a young American Volunteer who was helping Roz out. So in the end we spent the rest of the day with them. It seemed that alot of the kids preferred to actually play in the moat and in the end I figure I was probably in that decidedly dodgy water for about 3 hours. Still, no after effects this year.

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But the best day for me was the next one. We had been invited to join Roz, Glen and the children at Roz’s Mums’ village home. I ended up going alone as Boon really wanted to carry on with the city madness, having done numerous village Song Krans in his past.

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I met everyone at the Childrens home first and joined them in their truck getting to the ‘party’ at around 2pm.

Here the waterplay was just as enthusiastic, but inevitably there would be long waits in between passing vehicles.  But with food  and music and the beer and Laokao flowing freely a great time was had by all.

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It was the first time I’d really let go for many months and after accepting the first glass of laokao, after already starting on the beer, there really was no going back.

Its just a shame that Boon had stayed in town, as reserved as he can be, at the right time I know he enjoys a good party to and it would have been nice to enjoy it together. Nevermind, there will be other party’s I’m sure

sk28 Dividing my time between Roz’s Mums, water play in the street and several trips to the neighbours who were plying me with laokao, I steadily got happily drunk, on the atmosphere as well as the alcohol.

Luckily I managed to join in with the traditional walk around the village where everyone goes to the houses of the elder villages and gives food or money,( similar to what we used to do on Harvest Festival).

But lots of dancing in the street later after a couple of minor falls my Song Kran ended in an early laokao ‘coma’. Best time I’ve had in ages.

For more photos of this village Song Kran celebration visit our photobucket album here

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PhotobucketLoi Kratong…an age old Thai festival,where the Thai people pay respects to the spirits of the water at the end of the rainy season and place beautiful decorative floating ‘baskets’, adorned most often with intricate flower designs, incense sticks and a candle, onto the nearest waterway in a symbolic gesture to float away that years sins, and send up paper lanterns into the night sky for good luck.

Well that’s the gist of the original festival. These days in Chiang Mai , as with many of the festivals, it appears to be an opportunity to throw off the usual Thai reserve and go crazy for an evening.

After all, Loi Kratong translates into “Make your own mind up”.

Maybe that’s a little unfair. Many , many Thais do their best to perform the ceremony in a quiet respectful manner. And the parade clearly involves a lot of hard work and dedication and is quite wonderful.

To see the night sky fill with a new set of stars for the evening, as thousands of lanterns are sent up is also a wonder to behold.

But for me the noise of thousands more fireworks going off and often being thrown carelessly around in the midst of thronging crowds somehow brings quite a downer onto what should be a very spiritual event.

Enough of the stick in the madness. If you can handle dodging firecrackers , often thrown in the direction of ‘farang’ by Thai youths testing your reaction, and don’t mind giving your ear drums a battering for the evening, it is one of those ‘must do events’ and great party atmosphere.

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Typical scenes at Song KranIt is said that many farang give Thailand a miss in April because of the extreme summer temperatures, and as my first April here began, I could understand why. But just as it was becoming unbearable, along came Song Kran.

It means ‘ to pass’ or ‘move forward’ and is the celebration of the Thai New Year.

Traditionally it is a time where Thai people would put on their best clothes and in a very polite and respectful way, splash water onto the faces of friends and relatives.

Come to Chiang Mai and you will witness the fact that it has ‘progressed’ into a free for all mass water fight that goes on for 3 days officially.

I have to confess to being in two minds over this festival as it is now. Being a bit of a traditionalist, a big part of me would like to witness a more authentic and reverent version of this celebration.

But, as there is clearly little hope of that in Chiang Mai, I for one allowed the child in me to come out, and got stuck in, spending 3 days at moat side, throwing buckets of water at the passing traffic, and 1 day driving round with my motorcycle and sidecart on the receiving end of the roadside throwers and returning fire from the bucket in my sidecart.

It certainly isn’t for the faint hearted, as water flies in all directions, from buckets, water pistols,(many very big pump actioned long distance squirters), and the occasional hose pipe.

And look out for the guys with blocks of ice in their buckets!

if you are in the area you are fair game.

do look out for the occasional flying ice-cube…i got one on the head and they bloody hurt!

there were rumours of acid water being used by some idiots and I did feel the occasional light burning sensation.

be on the look out for alcohol fueled hotspots. we were lucky enough to miss it but the news did show quite a violent fracas between two groups of stick weilding Thais.

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Loi Kratong 2008

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Read about previous years events here

Other events here

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