Jan 062009
 

THE VIEW POINT AND MONKEY TROUBLE ON THE WAY DOWN
59 It took about an hour to get to the top where we sat for a while recovering before really taking in the splendor of the surrounding views.After around half an hour taking it all in and paying our respects to the Buddha watching over these beautiful lands we made our way back down.

73The downward trip was, in more than one way , a little more precarious than the tiring climb up. Firstly the steps were very steep in places and trickier going down. And then we came upon a very aggressive looking adult male monkey, sitting on the handrail at the side of the steps.

Not carrying anything, I passed him first trying not to show my nervousness. Then I encouraged Boon to do the same. As Boon passed, with a bottle of water in his hand, the monkey made a lunge for the bottle and then went after Boon who dashed down the steps , turning to throw the bottle at the monkey.
74 Having got what it was after, it stopped chasing and set to work getting at the water.
Full of satisfaction at having made the climb and got back down without being bitten by the monkey we then rode over to Ao Nang Beach for a relaxing afternoon, swimming and sleeping on the sand. This was about 30 minutes ride along good roads and great scenery on the way.
AO NANG BEACH
80 This is a busy seaside town built along one road that runs along the seafront and is lined with cafes, restaurants, and several boat tour operators.
The beach stretches further than the seafront road and is made up of lush golden sand. The view out to sea is spotted with islands and at the one end of the beach is a mountain rock that looks like a mini-volcano.

95 If you don’t want want to go on an organised tour but still fancy checking out the many Islands out, there are many long-tail boats that act as taxis to the small islands close by. Be aware that there may be an extra hourly charge for spending time on certain islands.
This is a well developed resort now so expect that to be reflected in the accommodation prices if you want to stay at one of the many hotels or guest houses, that said it will still be cheap compared to home.
DAY 6…KAYAKING AT BOH TOR
1121 It was another early morning call to be up and ready for our transport to Boh Tor, to the west of Krabi, for our days kayaking.

About an hours drive, in a very nice air conditioned minibus, got us to this beautiful inlet.
The waterway wends its way around lush mangrove islands, huge green topped lumps of granite making a great impression on the skyline.
113 Our tour party was very small, being myself, Boon, and a Londoner with his Thai wife.

Our guide was a Thai guy in his mid twenties who was very friendly and funny and obviously took pride in his job, telling us all about the history of the lake and its islands. To my shame I didn’t actually take alot of it in, but only because I was awestruck at the natural beauty of the place. 971 We had two sessions kayaking, about an hour and a half, before taking lunch at the lakeside restaurant,( in the price of the tour) and about the same after.

As a child I often used to imagine paddling about in a kayak, down narrow waterways, and I reveled in a childhood dream come true.

108 The guide took us into a few interesting places such as a long cave tunnel, and also stopped us and walked us through a set of dry caves where there are ancient cave paintings.
In the afternoon the wind got up quite strong and the currents created in the narrow waterways made it quite hard work returning to base, but I was well up for it so it was ok.
THA POM KHLONG SONG NAM NATURE TRAIL
1141 When the kayaking was over, before heading home , the tour took us to a nearby nature trail which took in a fast running mountain stream, a short ‘safe’ section of which was set aside for swimming.
117 Testing the waters with my toe I quickly realised that the only way to get in was the sudden plunge. The water was so cold, but wonderfully refreshing.
A raised wooden walkway took us through the marshy mountain forest where there were many different plants, trees and butterflies to be seen.

120The tour guide was happy to stay as long as we wanted and we had about an hour there before heading back to the guest house.

We spent our last evening back down at Nopharatara beach , getting food there and watching the sunset before getting an early night ready for our trip home.

DAY 7…GETTING BACK UP NORTH, UNBOOKED, CHRISTMAS WEEK

In the end it was no great problem getting home. Refusing the TATs offers of help to buy premium rate flight or train tickets we winged it by going to the local bus station, where Boon informed me that they are under an obligation to run buses as long as there are people wanting to travel at this time of year because so many Thais travel to their respective family homes for the New Year.
So after the mild panic, we managed to get a ride back to Bangkok in a very packed, but comfortable, air-con coach and after a couple of hours at the terminal in Bangkok, got a similar ride home to Chiang Mai, which actually got us back into Chiang Mai in the afternoon of the next day.

All in all a great holiday.

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Jan 022009
 

CHIANG MAI > CHIANG RAI > DOI TUNG > MAESAI > GOLDEN TRIANGLE >
CHIANG KHONG > CHIANG RAI > CHIANG MAI
5 DAYS ON MOTORCY

So, maybe you are just a little bit crazy, like me, and fancy a tour with the freedom to choose where you go along the way.
Finding a motorcy for rent in Chiang Mai is easy, there are many outlets offering bikes rent, price dependent on what cc you select.
If you do fancy a trip like this one, select a bike of at least 110cc and if you happen to be traveling with a passenger then 125 or higher. These motorcys are great for buzzing around on but the common 100ccs struggle with getting up the mountains.

DAY ONE>>TO CHIANG RAI

Our first leg was Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai. We figured just getting to Chiang Rai was good enough for the first day. Its a 3-4 hour journey on the bus, so we knew that it would be maybe double that on the bike. Seeing that they aren’t really built for long distance touring, its advisable to rest the bike as often as possible.
Our first rest stop was at a beautiful spot in the first mountain range, just short of Pong Nam Hot Springs.

national-park-watermarked

Its great fun flying along the superhighway and up and down the winding mountain passes.

mountain-view-watermarkedThe road, on the whole, is very good and for the most part was quite empty.

Still it doesn’t pay to get complacent as coaches and freight trucks often appear from nowhere, traveling at ridiculous speeds and having scant respect for smaller vehicles.

As we reached Fang, the heavens opened and there was monsoon like rain for the next 2 hours, all the way to Chiang Rai. It may have been sensible to have stopped and found somewhere to stop for the night and carry on the next day. But hell, this is the sort of thing that makes me feel alive.
Stopping to buy refuse bags, that we cut and used as some protection against the rain, we pressed on slowly through the downpour, arriving in Chiang Rai at around 6.15pm, looking and feeling like a couple of drowned rats.
We then had a 20 minute ride around town trying to find somewhere to stay, before asking at the market and being directed to a guest house.

guest-house-chiang-rai-watermarkedThe guest house had a very nice friendly feel to it, had a range of accommodation, from dorm beds to air con rooms. We settled on a double room with fan.
Chiang Rai town is a lot smaller than Chiang Mai and much less developed, and in the rain, appears to shut down at 10pm.
So we spent that night relaxing at the guest house which has a varied menu of Thai and western dishes at very good prices.

Day 2

meeting-martinwatermarkedHaving breakfast, I was joined by another guest, Martin, a German guy who had been living in America for 6 years. We discovered that we were heading in roughly the same direction and struck up a plan to travel together.Martin was a funny guy, after we convinced him to hire a motorcy, ( having never ridden one before), he then took an awfully long time tying his bags on, being somewhat overcautious. But each to his own:).

Before heading off towards Maesai; our next target for overnight stay with Boons family; we called in at the Temple next door. In future travels I will be more meticulous in recording names of places, but I hadn’t got it in my head to do this site then.

temple-chiang-rai-watermarked temple-chiang-rai-2-watermarked

Pretty nervous about the motorcy to begin with,Martin soon got the hang of it. Trouble was that he neglected to top up the fuel first. As we set off from Chiang Rai and stopped for fuel, we had another 20 minutes wait whilst Martin untied his bags so that he could lift the seat to fill up, and then re-tie everything.Maesai is not so far from Chiang Rai, about 2 hours by motor cy, and Martin agreed to our detour to find Wat Doi Tung. (to continue this tour follow this link)

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Jan 022009
 

royal-palace-entrance

Taking the signposted left turn it was onwards and upwards, on the magnificently scenic mountain road. This road whilst being in good condition, gets very steep and winding in places and at times was quite scary, especially when the rain came again.

As we reached Doi Tung Royal Palace Gardens, we stopped to shelter from the rain and had coffee. Here we discovered that our planned onward journey along the back mountain road round to Maesai was considered too dangerous due to military disputes between the Hilltribes and the Burmese.

I’m told that the gardens are well worth a visit too, but will have to confirm that in the future as we were focused on Wat Doi Tung.
1st-temple-doi-tung-watermarked 1st-temple-doi-tung-2-watermarked When the rain receded we carried on, very carefully, to our destination.

There are actually two Temples close to each other, Wat Doi Tung being at the very top of the mountain road.

The first was, for me, slightly more impressive architecturally.

But Wat Doi Tung, hidden away amongst the lush green mountain forest, doused in a thick mist definitely held the greater spiritual feel to it.

wat-doi-tungnow wat-doi-tung-2-watermarked Beautiful , but not so big, after about 40 minutes there we decided to head back down and on to Maesai.
The last bits of the road to the Temple had been particularly steep and winding and, with the wet roads, the ride back down was quite frightening in places, but we did ok.

Further down the skies brightened and the roads dried out and….I got a flat back tyre.

doi-tung-repair-watermarkedBoon went ahead with Martin to find some help. I carried on down, walking the bike, until they returned just 10 minutes later with a foot pump, borrowed from a repair shop nearby. After putting enough air in so that I could ride it slowly, we took the bike down to the workshop, where a very friendly guy replaced the inner tube in 10 minutes.Whilst waiting, some of the mechanics friends offered us local Thai ‘whiskey’. Not wanting to appear impolite, I accepted a small glass of the clear liquid, that tasted more like schnapps. Just as well that I just had the 1….it was extremely potent.

So off we went again, back to the main road for Maesai.

It was getting dark as we motored onwards, taking a right turn, about 20 minutes down the road, before Maesai. This road would take us to one of Somboons uncles houses. We hadnt gone far down this narrow country lane before…

.ahhhhh…flat front tyre.

This time Boon phoned his uncle, who sent Boons brothers out with a pick-up truck and we then completed our journey to Boons uncles, in the quiet village of San Thanon Gai.

boons-uncles-watermarkedWhen we arrived there were many people there sitting outside the house, under a rough lean-to, drinking Thai whiskey. It was an interesting night, we received a warm welcome and the various people did their best to chat with us through Somboon.The striplight we were sitting under attracted hundreds of winged insects.

After I was unable to hide my discomfort as the insects constantly buzzed around my head, Boons uncle fetched a large bowl of water. Holding it up to the swarm he caught many but they were soon replaced by more.

In the end the whiskey made me care less.

Looking down at the bowl full of drowned insects I nudged Martin and joked, ‘tomorrows breakfast’.

Martin chose to sleep outside in his hammock, whilst Boon and I slept in the living room an cushions laid out by his family, under a large mosquito net.

DAY 3

boons-bro-watermarkedWaking early with a headache I joined boons aunt and younger brother as the boy prepared for school.
Even in these poor villages the families do all they can to ensure that their children dress smart for school.
Boons grandfather was next up and asked me to wake Boon. We then sat chatting with his grandfather for some time, before taking the bike to a nearby repair shop run by two Thai women.
By the time we got back Martin was up, and breakfast was ready.
fried-flies-watermarkedSure enough the insects from the night before had been de-winged and fried up.

Tucking in, I actually found them to be quite a tasty snack. I did draw a line at grilled toads, caught from the damp forecourt earlier. But here in the rural North, money is scarce and they eat what is available.

houses-san-thanon1-watermarkedAfter breakfast we called in at the next ‘uncle’ who lived in one of the traditional wooden stilted houses, where another uncle was busy woodworking. This family was obviously better off and we were even able to get a heated shower and a more substantial breakfast. We stayed for nearly an hour, during which time I was offered a similar house down the lane.

houses-san-thanon-2-watermarked Off for our next tour destination, Chiang Khong. Our route took us through The Golden Triangle and we made this a lunch stop.
Laos, Burma and Thailand all meet at this point, on either sides of the Mekong river and the views are fantastic. The riverside town is very touristy, and has an almost British seaside resort feel to it. Still, turn away from the stalls and look over the river, as we did, eating lunch at a riverside food stall cooperative.

mekong-watermarked


to continue this tour please follow this link.

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Jan 022009
 

buddha-mekon-watermarked These giant Buddhas are quite awe inspiring, especially in settings such as this.
waterfallnow After a fuel stop at Chiang Saen, there was another mountain range to cross and we took the opportunity to take another detour, to a waterfall tucked away in the forests, next to yet another Temple.

Unfortunately I neglected to note the name but it was about half way to Chiang Kong, from the Golden Triangle, and signposted for a right turn.

monkeysnow It wasn’t so big but was beautiful and the Temple next door had some very old stonework, including stone monkeys climbing up the walls.

mountain-village-2now A little further on , up in the mountains we stopped to take a look at a couple of the mountain villages.
mountain-village-3-watermarked Saw some amazing views, houses,people and became centre of attention for many school kids on their way home. The kids loved posing for photos and gave some great examples of the famous Thai smiles. mountain-village-4-watermarked

Eventually we made our way to Chiang Khong, passing through the most stunning views, and booked in to The Green Tree Guest House. Boon and I had been here before on an overnight trip and found it to be a very friendly little place with good food at local Thai prices and comfy rooms for just 100baht a night.

Both Boon and I were shattered from so much travel on the bike and ended up having a very early night whilst martin explored the night life in Chiang Khong. For such a small place the local entertainment was by all accounts quite good, with a good splattering of bars and live music.

DAY 4.
The next morning we headed off fairly early as Martin needed to be back in Chiang Rai for 1.30 to catch a bus down south.
The road from Chiang Khong carries on back round to Chiang Rai through yet more unbelievably beautiful countryside.
We made it back to Chiang Rai at almost spot on 1.30 and said our goodbyes to Martin, after Boon helped him get a ticket for the bus which, as it turned out, didn’t leave for another couple of hours.
We have since received e mail confirmation from Martin, now back in the States, that his little tour with us was the highlight of his trip, which is most heartwarming.
wat-rong-khun-1watermarked As for Boon and I, it was off to visit the famous White Temple, Wat Rong Khun. This Temple is the lifetime project of Thai artist, Chalermchai Kositpipat, and is quite spectacular in its design.
The entirely white stonework is adorned with thousands of tiny mirror tiles. Some say that this is meant for the visitor to see the Buddha spirit reflected within themselves. I have to admit to feeling slightly let down with its location, being right next to an intersection and the distinct lack of Monks, other than the few amongst the visitors. wat-rong-kuhn-2-watermarked
Apparently the attraction is particularly designed to be viewed in the moonlight and it is said that the effect is well worth seeing…another plan for the future.

thai-house1watermarked1 Still in no rush to get home we then went 40 km east off the route home to find another ‘Uncle’,another quiet rural setting and a fantastic Thai house where we were greeted,fed and boarded for the night. thai-house-2watermarked

Before taking to our beds we went out on the bike for a look around and stopped at a nearby bar for a soft drink. Whilst we were there a middle aged Thai couple came in with a plate of barbecued meat of some sort. Seeing me, they called us over and offered us some of the meat. Wanting to at least know what it was, I asked before accepting. Having been told that it was rat, and once told could see from the shapes that this was likely true, i went ahead and accepted the offer. Its not something I would make a habit of eating but I have to say that it was quite delicious, somewhere in between pork and beef in flavour.

DAY 5

In the morning we were breakfasted on chicken and rice before we set off for home.

mountain-riverwatermarked We took a steady ride back,taking the loop from Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai, through Wiangpapao, rather than back the way we came, its much shorter.
We made several stops again to rest ourselves and the bike. The recent heavy rains showed in the mountain rivers.
butterlywatermarked Another of the delights of living here, for me, is the huge variety of butterfly’s and i am doing my best to gather a collection, by photo only, no way I would kill these beauties.
Although the rivers were full and murky brown from the rains, that day the sun shone and it was a thoroughly enjoyable ride home to good old Chiang mai.

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Dec 272008
 

Wednesday came again, so it was time for the second attempt at a joint day out with Ally. Determined not to mess it up this time, I selected the meeting point, (Coffee and Dairy Lovers Cafe, on the Canal Road, just before the Night Safari intersection.), and time, 11am.

100_3649Up at 7am, I made sure the shopping list got done as soon as the waiter arrived, so that I could get the market run done early. Having sorted the cafe shopping by 10am, I then had to go and rent a motorcy for the day. My JRD Chopper is in the workshop at the moment waiting for repairs to the exhaust.

So I popped round to my friends at Jaguar Bikes, Ratchavithi Soi 1, and acquired a Honda Wave, 125cc for 150 baht for the day. Jaguar have served me well during my 3 years in Thailand. The owner is very friendly and has a great sense of humour and good command of English language. Most important, I trust his bikes!

ali-bikeIncredibly I got everything done in time to leave here at 10.30 and found Ally waiting for me at the alloted meeting point;with her very impressive, and very noisy ride, a Yamaha DragStar.

She definately won the ‘Cool Award’ for this trip:)

100_3673

After a very nice Fresh Ice Coffee, (just 40 baht, which surprised me considering the quite upmarket feel of this lovely cafe), we headed off on our mission to find you more and more places to visit while you are here. Read on, you will not be disappointed.

Got an interest in changing landscapes? Try this for starters.

Ally leading the way, we turned right towards the Royal Flora and Night Safari, bearing left at the Royal Flora roundabout and off down the back road that follows roughly the same direction as the Canal Road.

Along this road I noticed a Agro-Tourism Bee Keeping visitors attraction which I will try and visit in the coming weeks.

quarry-panBut the reason Ally had taken me this way was to see the long row of Quarry’s where, over recent years, whole ‘mountains have been excavated for aggregate for the local building industry. These Quarry’s, some clearly extremely deep, are now filled with water and landscaping work is now on progress at a few of them, with the likely impression of future resorts appearing in this beautiful valley area.

The great thing about this area is that there is so much of interest to many different tastes.

bird1Are you an ornithologist? Take a ride into this valley and you will see a wide variety of very interesting bird life; Drongo’s, Bulbul’s and this Asian Fairy Bluebird were amongst the ones we spotted today.

100_3681The quarries done, we wended our way through the village roads , finding our way back to the Canal road, stopping at a quaint little Temple, Wat Nam Phrae, on our way. there will be a much fuller report on this Temple appearing in the Temple list soon.

Following the Canal Road to its very end we U turned and took the first left which follows the Mae Khan valley and passes through Ob Khan National Park,  to the Forest Temple that Ally had waxed lyrical about previously and eventually joins the main road 1013 at Mae Wang.

4buddhaMore birds, more beauty, there seems no end to the sublime nature of Thailand. Whilst stopping to watch a couple of Drongos, we spotted the group of four standing Buddhas that marked the location of the Forest Temple we were heading for, off in the distance.

100_3695About half way along the route we stopped briefly at yet another gem of a Temple, Wat Hoi Thong. This small beauty is perched on a hill with some lovely views of the forested hills around it.

(See the Temple listings in the near future for more photos and description.)

onionsTime was moving on and so did we, taking a relaxed ride onwards through some lovely little villages, past a pretty flower nusery, onion fields, rice fields, wooded roads, just my sort of day out.

Not just our chosen destination, but glimpses into so many aspects of real rural life here.

grasbikeHere you see country life going on as it has done for many decades, with old ladies carrying foodstuff or other wares in large baskets on wooden yolks over their shoulders;

The modern age creeps in, with motorcy’s being used in similar fashion.

We finally reached Wat Doi Sapphanyu, our destination, at around 1pm.

wheel-wallThe Temple grounds are extensive and in the process of much development at this time.

As you approach you travel along the outer wall that is made up of huge concrete ‘wheels’.

In the Temple grounds, a beautifully peaceful mountain forest area, a recently built, second Temple is near completion.

Take a stroll over to the right of the compound to what appears to be a large dining, or possibly teaching area, and you will find one of those stunning views that Thailand has in abundance.

pan

Then brace yourself for the delights of the main Temple. Here I found some of the finest examples of Temple art that I have seen to date.

100_3735The inner walls are completely covered with various scenes from Siddartha, even the pillars are similarly decorated.

100_3731Behind the several large Buddhas to the rear is a stunning wall of stained glass ‘stars’.

As well as the Siddartha scenes , there is an incredible portrait of an elder Monk and also a wonderful painting of His majesty, The King.

100_3755Look back out of the doors of this Temple and witness the perfect symmetry of the Chedi with the new Temple behind.

Strolling around the grounds you find many other interesting statues, including the famous Buddha, hair cutting scene, with ‘demon’ seemingly reaching out of the ground in front of the Buddha, similar in design to the hands at The White Temple in Chiang Rai.

100_3767We also had the delight of witnessing a huge bee colony at work at the top of a huge alcove, in between the new Temple and the Chedi, that houses another giant standing Buddha.

100_3777Around 500 yards from the inner temple compound, still within the outer walls, you will find the 4 standing Buddhas. The way through the trees is clearly marked. As you take this route you will see some lovely concrete and plaster plaques, with yet more Siddartha scenes. These are also part of the ongoing development and still a work in progress.

100_3779At the site of the 4 standing Buddhas; facing North, West, South, and East; there is yet more , very extensive construction under way of , as yet indeterminable nature.

Nice one Ally…big thanks for discovering this one!!

By this time we were getting a little hungry and thirsty and took our leave of this wonderful site after around an hour, and headed off to Mae Wang. This is achieved by turning right at the bottom of the Temple entrance road.

Mae Wang is a small Market town, which you can reach in a more direct manner by traveling out of Chiang Mai on the main 108 road through Hang Dong and San Pa Tong and then taking the right turning on the 1013.

maewanglunchAfter a delicious lunch, from a small stall near the market and a coffee at a Thai cafe nearby, we headed down the 1013 to join the 108 south of San Pa Tong.

The tour was not over, as we first headed south away from San Pa Tong.

elephant-housesAfter a short distance on the left there are unmissable giant Elephants , that are actually small air conditioned houses!

We reached Ban Mae Khan, where the 108 crosses the river and took a U turn after crossing the river,  and then taking the left hand turn, sign posted for the Ganesh museum.

This quirky place is about 5.5 kms down this road. If you decide to go, bear this in mind and watch your meter, as there are no determinable signs declaring the museums presence when you actually reach it.

100_3797100_3807Entrance is free, and the compact site contains some very well kept gardens and several small buildings, including to elongated ‘museum’ buildings, housing an extensive collection of Ganesh statues, wood carvings and various other images. The building on the right does have some information plaques in both Thai and English language. No photos are allowed inside the museum buildings.

There is also a gift shop with a huge range of Ganesh related items for sale. I came away with some very nice quality incense and a small silver pendant for Somboon.

It was sometime after 4pm when we left here and headed back towards San Pa Tong and Chiang Mai on the main 108.

On the way home I was happy to repay Ally slightly for her giving me such a great route, by showing her Wat Pa Delurn Tam, the Wat I discovered last week.

So there you have it, archaeologists, ornithologists, Temple enthusiasts, followers of Ganesh,  nature lover, or anyone just looking for a cost effective day out……its all there; Enjoy:)

For more photos from Wat Doi Sapphanyu visit our photobucket album here.

For more photos from the Ganesh Museum go here.

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Dec 192008
 

So, you fancy a day out that won’t cost alot, a nice ride out on your motorcy? Try this one.

Firstly a little advice if you are planning such a trip with a friend when you are both starting from different locations. Do ensure that both parties really do know the proposed meeting point. At the very least ensure that you have a well charged mobile phone so any confusion can be sorted easily. Me and Ali,(my webmaster, all hail!), arranged to meet at a coffee shop on the Hang Dong Road. Trouble was I got the wrong place and had discovered my mobile phone battery well flat that morning with no time to charge it up. From all accounts we both spent some time riding up and down Hang Dong road looking for each other and failing miserably. In the end I took the view that Ali was likely to have gone ahead to San Pa Tong anyway so I did the same. I was wrong and I have to apologise profusely to Ali for screwing her day up. putting my guilt to one side here follows the report of a great place to visit.

The nicest drive, I think, is to head out on the canal road, passing the Night Safari intersection(placemark 17 on our Google Map) and on to the intersection with the Samoeng Road,(placemark 18); at these lights cross over and carry on straight ahead. After around half an hours gentle ride you should bear left, (placemark 19) which will take you to a T junction with the main 108 at San Pa Tong. Leaving the Night Safari intersection at around 11.15am, I arrived at San Pa Tong a little before 12, midday.
The ride down that minor road had been lovely, through the rice fields where workers were busy gathering straw and the air was filled with the smells of fresh cut plant life. Other stretches of the road had wonderful floral scents, lavender, wild garlic and much more.
100_3437Just to the right of the T Junction at San Pa Tong was a delightful little coffee shop, “Cup and Cake”, where I sat a while with an iced Latte of very good quality for just 40 baht. The staff were very friendly and the manageress was very helpful when I enquired on the whereabouts of the Forest Temple that Ali had said we would be visiting. She wasn’t sure, but pointed me in the direction of  Wat pa De-lurn Tam. (was it this one Ali?)

100_3507 This Temple turned out to be just 5 minutes or so ride down the road and a wonderful place to visit.

Set in quite vast grounds, with several buildings spread out between the trees, the compound appears very well tended and appears to be very popular with school visitors.

100_3494 Indeed it seems to have been developed into a ‘teaching’ Temple.

In various spots around the grounds you come across many figurines dipicting various scenes from The Buddhas life story. An excellent teaching tool to pass on the culture.

100_3456 Other notable features are the gigantic Golden reclining Buddha; a group of quaint concrete Animal statues, including dinosaurs,  and a curious dome shape Vihara.

At the time of my visit there was a large party of children ,from one of the local school, milling around.

100_3459 100_3466 It became quite impossible to take photographs of the concrete animals without several children rushing into the shot and posing. Many of them seemed keen to practice their English and there was a prolonged period of answering the same questions, ‘what is your name?’, ‘where do you come from?’. The lovely part of that was the genuine looks of delight when they got an answer, seemingly surprised that I’d actually understood them.

boom3 One confident young lad, Boom, became my guide for a short time, keen to point all the many different things worth photographing.

100_3474 It was he who took me around to the dome shape Vihara, quite different in design to anything I’ve seen at Thai Temples before, it had more of a Dutch feel about it to me.

Peace was restored when the school children were called to the large activities hall where they were screening a cartoon film of Buddhas story on a large projector screen, followed by an enthusiastic sounding lecture from one of the Monks. 100_3485

The Monks dwellings are set to the back of the grounds behind a big wall and set between a much higher density of trees, so maybe you could call this a Forest Temple; I’m sure it was in the past. 100_3490

There is so much to see here, and it would certainly be a great ‘family’ visit. For many more photos of this Temple grounds visit our photobucket album here.

After spending the best part of an hour and a half here, I then headed back the way I came, taking my time and visiting 6 more Temples on the way home. All these Temples will appear soon under the Temple list on our home page. You could do the same or maybe even just take a ride around the many village roads, and even head up into the hills for an hour or two; something I’ll be doing next time I head out this way.

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Dec 092008
 

Never being one to plan too much or book ahead, I was beginning to regret that part of my nature when everywhere we tried around the Golden Triangle seemed to want upwards of 600 baht a night for a double room, and those were the budget places. All that distance driving and a car full of family, my normal high stress threshold was wavering. So after traveling on to Chiang Sean, Gins House seemed like a God send when she offered us a family room for 600 baht.

Gins House is a large two storey Thai style home, set in large gardens with a couple of ‘chalets’ in the garden at the rear of the house, a couple more rooms in an outbuilding, a large cafe/bar area at the front of the garden and more rooms in the main house.

All in all it was a lovely place with only a couple of minor downsides. Gin the very amenable lady owner offered us a family room upstairs, to accommodate all of us on 2 king size beds, for just 600 baht.

After checking the room out we readily accepted. After a little more consideration I decided to ask for another double room for Boon and me. Offering us one of the rooms in the outbuilding outside, Gin dropped the price from the apparent usual 300 baht to 200 and we took the room. I guess I should know by now that you should always give the room a full inspection before accepting. The musty smell hadn’t bothered me too much, figuring it would soon go if we left the door open for a while.

It didn’t, and when we went to use the bathroom the smell was much worse and everything looked in desperate need of some cleaning materials. Worn out by our travels we decided to just do our best to get some rest , deciding we could go and use the bathroom facilities in the family room later. So we turned on the fan and lay out on the bed to try and sleep. Unfortunately the fan was so noisy, sounding ready to fall off its mountings at any moment, that we decided to go join the rest of the family instead.

Upstairs in the family room, the room itself was spacious, clean and airy and outside the room was a large ‘sitting room’ and then large balcony outside, lovely.

So toilet shower time. Oops! What I initially took to be an interesting original design idea, a loose pebble floor affair, turned out to be hiding the sodden floor underneath caused by a constant leak by the sink. The bath was musty grey from layers of dust that clearly hadn’t been touched for weeks; and on attempting a shower the water pressure meant that little or no water got through. Shame because otherwise the place really was comfortable and homely. the garden was quite something, with many old wooden cart wheels and other odds and ends.

We all took an early night and got what sleep we could in between Sophie having an unsettled night.

In the morning we down for breakfast in the guest house’s quirky cafe; sort of a cross between Thai style and a wild west cowboy saloon. And I have to say that the food was very good.

After breakfast we headed back to find Boons younger brother. We had a loose plan to lunch at a lake near Chiang Sean that Boon had mentioned and decided that it would be nice to see if his brother would like to join us.

Luckily we found him at home this time. After accepting Boons gift of a new jumper for cold season, Berr accepted our invite to the lake.

Of course Boon was going by distant memory so it was quite a time before we found the lake, about 40 mins as apposed to the 15 minutes he suggested.
The lake certainly was beautiful and we had the pleasure of seeing a herd of Buffalo being herded to the water and going for a swim. Unfortunately we had no luck finding any open eating places and ended up returning to Chiang Sean to eat by the river.

Time was ticking by and we really needed to be heading on as we had hoped to visit the White Temple in Chiang Rai before the last leg back to Chiang Mai. So Boon and I took Berr back home arranging to meet the family back in Chiang Sean at 1pm.
Chiang Sean is quite an historic town. It was in fact the original capital of the Lanna Kingdom before King Mengrai moved the status of Capital City to Chiang Rai.

The drive on from Chiang Sean to Chiang Khong goes through some spectacular mountain scenery and is one of my favourite roads up that way. Look out for the Huaisai Man View Point, its a “must stop and look”.

Still on the Mekong River, Chiang Kong is quite a bustling market town in the day time and relativel sleepy, early closing in the evening. That said there are a few bars with a decent live music scene going on.

If you are ever staying there I personally recommend a love guesthouse, The Green Tree Guest House and cafe, that has rooms from 100 baht a night and fantastic food in the ‘Boat’ cafe. Pui is a lovely lady, very helpful and friendly and I hope we’ll see her again sometime soon.

We hadn’t really got time to spend too much time in Chiang Khong but we were all hungry and decided to look for somewhere to eat. Taking a left turn opposite the main market area we discovered an absolute gem of a place that I also highly recommend; BaanRimtaling.

Down a side street we spotted a Guesthouse cafe sign in front of a quaint looking dwelling. As we walked through to the cafe  we discovered that it sat on the banks of the River and had stunning views from its balcony eating area.

The food, both Thai and western options was superb, with helpings that you struggle to finish. on chatting with the staff we discovered that they have dorm accommodation from just 50baht a night and ‘chalets’ up to 450 for one that sleeps 3. For more info contact them here.

Everyone was pretty tired and rushing people was no use so in the end we didnt reach Chiang Khong until early evening at which point the White Temple was closed. Never mind, theres always next time.

After a coffee break opposite the White temple, we decided to just head back, getting back to the Guest House at the height of Chiang Mais Sunday Market.

For many more photos from this trip visit our photobucket albums here.

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Dec 012008
 

Maybe something we should have done when the family were here, I think the kids would have loved it. This day out was essentially to take advantage of the promotion for the newly opened, state of the art Aquarium, which meant you could get 2 tickets for the price of one. As there is a different price for locals and foreigners,(290 for locals, 520 for farang; this is for all inclusive tickets, you can buy tickets for the Zoo only or Aquarium seperately)) Somboon and I went with our friends and regular customers,  Leo and Par, so that we got the full advantage of the deal.

Having always been on the anti-zoo side it took me a while to agree to go but I decided that I should take a look so as to be able to make a proper decision on my view of this facility. Accepting that in an age where many species face extinction, there may be a place for such institutions so that younger generations may get to truly appreciate the glory of animal nature, I went with an open mind.

As you enter the exhibition you pass several small aquariums with all manner of sealife on show. And then its onto the massive walkthru section where you see the bigger fish and sharks to.

Here follows my report on our visit and I will save my conclusion until the end of this write-up.

There is no doubt that this Zoo is a beautiful place to visit, set in some very well kept grounds at the foot of Doi Suthep.  If you were so minded you could easily spend a whole day just enjoying the gardens, with so many quiet spots to sit and simply enjoy the surroundings.

The first wildlife we came across were the Flamingos. Shunning the shuttle buses we walked on through the picturesque gardens.

Leo and Par got very friendly with the Hippos.

A little further on by the Giraffe enclosure, I discovered that in a short space of time I had managed to mislay my ticket, and realizing that I would probably have to produce it to gain entry to the Aquarium I had to return to the ticket office. The staff were very helpful and i was shown back into the Zoo by the supervisor who radioed ahead to confirm my ticket purchase with the Aquarium. Jumping on the shuttle to the Aquarium I looked out for the others, who joined me as the shuttle arrived at the Giraffe compound.It was quite a way round to the Aquarium so I was happy for the shuttle ride.

The Aquarium itself is set in a large area with a man made lake with a long bridge walkway to the main building. You do indeed have to produce your Aquarium ticket before gaining access to the bridge.

Without doubt this fascinating experience was pretty fantastic. With supposedly the longest walk through tunnel in the world you do feel like you get an insight into the underwater world of ocean life.

As you enter the exhibition you pass many small aquariums with all manner of sea life on display. And then it is on to the massive walk-thru section where you get to see the bigger fish and sharks too.

And now I have to pay homage to the makers of cartoon movies such as Finding Nemo. I never quite appreciated the cartoon makers skills in accurate portrayal of their characters, until I got this snap of a large ray passing over us

Slightly disappointing was the absence of Hammerhead sharks pictured in the Aquarium advertising, but that apart I was well impressed.

Exiting the Aquarium, we carried on around the Zoo that certainly has a wide variety of animals and birds on display.

In conclusion; I still hold with my aversion to zoos on the basis that the animals are invariably kept in enclosures that do not allow them anything near their natural environment. It does appear that the Zoo management is making some moves towards improving this situation with certain species with the building of ‘Gibbon Island’ and a massive new Aviary.

Most upsetting for me was seeing the Gibbons presently housed in relatively small and barren cages, set in amongst the trees. I can imagine that this must be torture for these intelligent creatures, being able to see and not touch.

Also the Asian Tiger pacing back and forth was not a happy sight. Neither was the discover that the fascinating Binturong that I saw marooned on a pedestal display with just a small hut for shelter is in fact nocturnal.

As previously stated, there is no disputing that the grounds of the Zoo appear to be well managed and it is a beautiful place to visit just for that. You will need to make your own decision on the ethics of such a facility.

To see many more photos of Chiang Mai Zoo and aquarium follow this link.

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Dec 012008
 

Having spent a relaxing night at the Doi Fah Hompok National Park at Fang we somehow got everyone up and ready to hit the road again by 9.30 the next morning.

A slow drive back down to the main road showed us so beautiful views as we passed the nearby rice fields where the workers all stopped their toil to wave to the kids.

From here we wended our way up through Mae Ai and on to Thaton, a sleepy village right on the border with Myanmar, (where it is possible to get a 3 and a half hour boat trip to Chiang Rai.)
Our first stop in Thaton was to the Sitting Buddha above the Chinese style Temple where you are treated to some spectacularly beautiful views.

We spent a fair time enjoying the peace and serenity up there. Just below this huge Buddha is another, this time the rotund, happy Buddha with knapsack on his back standing in a wonderfully landscaped ‘garden’ at a corner in the road up to yet another Temple. Here the kids loved exploring the cave pathway to the Buddha.

Inside the cave were various figures , from animals to Gnome like characters, carved into the stone.

The terraced ‘garden’ overlooked by the cheery faced Buddha is truly delightful. Finally managing to drag Jamie out of the cave we headed to the riverside to find some lunch. Parking by the river we were immediately accosted by a group of Hill Tribe girls doing their best to sell their wares. My poor sister Theresa got hounded quite vigorously

Having managed to get the girls to try elsewhere after giving them 20 baht each for the photo pose, we sat for lunch at a very friendly Thai cafe.

You are welcome to visit our photobucket album here for for photos of this and other things to do in and from Chiang Mai.

If you would like to read the next part of this 3 day excursion to Maesai visit this link …

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