The biggest recent event was of course Song Kran, a wonderful festival held every year in the second week of April to celebrate the Thai New Year.

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This year I was happy to enjoy both the madness of the free-for-all waterfight, that the festival has become in Chiang Mai, and a mildly less crazy version in a village in Lamphun.

Having already got many photos from 3 previous Song Kran Festivals I was not prepared to risk my camera in the city madness. But with the cafe closed Boon and I were free to go and join in the fun.

In Chiang Mai, untroubled by the protests down in Bangkok and other places, the waterplay around the moat kicked off proper on Sunday the 12th. With certain matters having got me a bit stressed out I was not in such a mood to join in but we did go down for a look see.

The next day, however, I woke up determined to put the stress to one side, (when you have a problem that has no immediate solution, whats the point stressing?), and just before midday we headed off to the moat for full participation.

It was a great atmosphere this year. Indeed I think that the slightly reduced crowd made it more enjoyable. Last year I spent very little time around the moat because of the massive numbers of people giving very little space to swing your water bucket.

This year was much better, still lots of players , but more space to move around freely.

Boon and I bought simple tube water guns with large backpack water tanks, which we wickedly added ice to every time we refilled.We had lots of fun walking round and round Thapae Gate and up and down Moonmuang, spraying unsuspecting soles with that icey water. By 5pm we’d had enough and returned home to dry off before the sun went down and the cold of our soaked clothes really set in.

The next day, setting off at around the same time we headed once again to our favourite spot at the left side of  Thapae Gate(from Ratchadamnoen).

Thapae Gate was as usual set up with many snack food stalls, an area that acts not only as a refueling station for hungry travelers, but also as a minor safe haven from the surrounding battle.

Just settling in to more water jousting, we suddenly spotted Roz and some of the kids from the Childrens Home, on the quieter ‘Old City’ side of the moat. Roz explained that it had been a bit of a last minute descision to bring the kids in. We met Tyler, a young American Volunteer who was helping Roz out. So in the end we spent the rest of the day with them. It seemed that alot of the kids preferred to actually play in the moat and in the end I figure I was probably in that decidedly dodgy water for about 3 hours. Still, no after effects this year.

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But the best day for me was the next one. We had been invited to join Roz, Glen and the children at Roz’s Mums’ village home. I ended up going alone as Boon really wanted to carry on with the city madness, having done numerous village Song Krans in his past.

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I met everyone at the Childrens home first and joined them in their truck getting to the ‘party’ at around 2pm.

Here the waterplay was just as enthusiastic, but inevitably there would be long waits in between passing vehicles.  But with food  and music and the beer and Laokao flowing freely a great time was had by all.

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It was the first time I’d really let go for many months and after accepting the first glass of laokao, after already starting on the beer, there really was no going back.

Its just a shame that Boon had stayed in town, as reserved as he can be, at the right time I know he enjoys a good party to and it would have been nice to enjoy it together. Nevermind, there will be other party’s I’m sure

sk28 Dividing my time between Roz’s Mums, water play in the street and several trips to the neighbours who were plying me with laokao, I steadily got happily drunk, on the atmosphere as well as the alcohol.

Luckily I managed to join in with the traditional walk around the village where everyone goes to the houses of the elder villages and gives food or money,( similar to what we used to do on Harvest Festival).

But lots of dancing in the street later after a couple of minor falls my Song Kran ended in an early laokao ‘coma’. Best time I’ve had in ages.

For more photos of this village Song Kran celebration visit our photobucket album here

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OVERVIEW

TOUR-3 CHIANG MAI >KRABI >CHIANG MAI……(TAKING IN KOH PHI PHI AND KAYAKING IN BOH TOR)
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OVERVIEWoverview-2

overview-1

Number of days taken…….. 8

Number of people… 2

Approximate total cost of trip…..8,300 baht

This trip was made by train and coach; total travel time from Chiang Mai to Krabi….approx 36 hours,(including approx 12 hours in Bangkok)

Approximate travel time of return journey, (all by coach); 24 hours, (including waiting times between services).

Total cost of trip includes all travel, (including renting and fuelling motorcy 4 days), accommodation, (guest house 4 nights) , 2 ‘tours’…Snorkeling Boat tour to Koh Phi Phi…..Kayaking day at Boh Tor.

And yes it does include the costs for both of us.

That’s a full weeks fantastic trip for two for approximately 125 quid!(this was in 2007)
DAY 1………OFF TO SEE THE SEA

This has to rate as one of my favourites, not just because of the white sandy beaches and paradise islands, but also because it started off as a mystery tour. The one firm stipulation for this trip was that we were going to the sea, as Somboon had never been.
We spent most of the Thursday that we began our trip, looking at maps and trying to decide where we would go. Having booked tickets for the night train to Bangkok, we still hadn’t decided on our final destination by the time we had to leave for the station.

cart-watermarkedWe had an amusing start, when we got quarter of the way from home and realised that we’d left the train tickets behind. We went on our motorcy and sidecart so that Boons friend Son could come along and take the bike home for us.
After turning back and getting the tickets, it was a mad dash for the station, with Son and Boon holding on for dear life and me humming the theme tune to ‘Mission Impossible’, all the way.

Luckily we had left early enough, the first time, to get to the station with 10 minutes to spare before the official departure time.

And so, a few minutes later we were on our way to Bangkok, still none the wiser as to where we would end up.

DAY 2——-KAOW SAN RD , BANGKOK

For once the we actually managed to sleep quite well on the train, despite the fact that we had taken the ‘Express’, with no sleeper .

Waking to the smell of coffee, as breakfast was served at around 7am, we continued to discuss our destination options.

By the time we reached Bangkok, around two hours later, we had loosely agreed on Rayong Province, possibly Koh Chang .

However, having been put off Rayong by the girl at T.A.T(Tourism Agency Thailand), who claimed that the water was not so nice in that area, suffering the output from Bangkok, we settled on going further south to Krabi. Despite her best efforts to book us into a resort or hotel, we stuck to our guns and just booked the bus for 7pm that night.

Having a day to kill we decided to head for the infamous Kaow San Road.

Being on ‘holiday’ alters my view on things sometimes and we opted for a Tuk tuk to get there, I usually avoid Tuk Tuks as there is often as somewhat dangerous in Bangkok traffic. Such is my nature that, despite the truth of that assessment, I got a real buzz from the ride, as our driver sped through the traffic as if on a life or death mission, screeching to a stop centimetres from the back of a truck as he took a left into a traffic jammed street, chuckling at my look of horror as I stared death in the face for a brief moment.

kaow-san Arriving at Kaow San, somewhat shaken but also totally exhilarated, our destination was somewhat of a let down.

My guess is that the whole feel of the place changes at night time, otherwise I can’t see what the big deal is. By day its a market street, lined with cafes and bars, full of Farang , many of them with that ‘cool’ set of traveling posers, with their dreadlocks, and beads, or else people with obviously too much money.

kaow-san-2 Many of the cafes reflect the presence of these people with their prices but it was possible, we found, to search out more reasonably priced outlets and some very good food.

We actually spend most of the day there, moving from cafe to cafe, watching all the other tourists and street life, with the obligatory Hilltribe sellers and various other street traders. We were entertained most well by one guy keen to sell his magic tricks and demonstrating many of them.

In the end we returned to the train station by around 6pm with an hour to wait for our bus.

BUS…T! , A HOT TRIP TO KRABI

Well, the bus looked impressive when we boarded, comfortable, decent leg room, air-con and video; along with a mix of different nationalities we settled down for the over night, 12 hour,trip.

Maybe the fact that the bus guide was a grumpy bitch, with an attitude more common to the UK, was an omen.

It was around 8pm when we got under way and the journey started well enough. But, as we headed out of Bangkok I began to worry that our trip might get cut short as I began to feel very feverish. The further we went the hotter I got. But I soon found out that it wasn’t just me, as more passengers began to complain about the heat, and eventually, about 2 hours into the trip, the bus pulled off the road, overheated.

2 Luckily they were able to sort the problem in about half an hour….but be aware that this is not an uncommon problem with the Thai bus tours.

The next official stop was at around 2am when we pulled in to a rest station near Thap Sakae, where we had food, (included in the bus ticket), and a 40 minute period for stretching legs etc.

To continue this tour please follow this link.

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THE VIEW POINT AND MONKEY TROUBLE ON THE WAY DOWN
59 It took about an hour to get to the top where we sat for a while recovering before really taking in the splendor of the surrounding views.After around half an hour taking it all in and paying our respects to the Buddha watching over these beautiful lands we made our way back down.

73The downward trip was, in more than one way , a little more precarious than the tiring climb up. Firstly the steps were very steep in places and trickier going down. And then we came upon a very aggressive looking adult male monkey, sitting on the handrail at the side of the steps.

Not carrying anything, I passed him first trying not to show my nervousness. Then I encouraged Boon to do the same. As Boon passed, with a bottle of water in his hand, the monkey made a lunge for the bottle and then went after Boon who dashed down the steps , turning to throw the bottle at the monkey.
74 Having got what it was after, it stopped chasing and set to work getting at the water.
Full of satisfaction at having made the climb and got back down without being bitten by the monkey we then rode over to Ao Nang Beach for a relaxing afternoon, swimming and sleeping on the sand. This was about 30 minutes ride along good roads and great scenery on the way.
AO NANG BEACH
80 This is a busy seaside town built along one road that runs along the seafront and is lined with cafes, restaurants, and several boat tour operators.
The beach stretches further than the seafront road and is made up of lush golden sand. The view out to sea is spotted with islands and at the one end of the beach is a mountain rock that looks like a mini-volcano.

95 If you don’t want want to go on an organised tour but still fancy checking out the many Islands out, there are many long-tail boats that act as taxis to the small islands close by. Be aware that there may be an extra hourly charge for spending time on certain islands.
This is a well developed resort now so expect that to be reflected in the accommodation prices if you want to stay at one of the many hotels or guest houses, that said it will still be cheap compared to home.
DAY 6…KAYAKING AT BOH TOR
1121 It was another early morning call to be up and ready for our transport to Boh Tor, to the west of Krabi, for our days kayaking.

About an hours drive, in a very nice air conditioned minibus, got us to this beautiful inlet.
The waterway wends its way around lush mangrove islands, huge green topped lumps of granite making a great impression on the skyline.
113 Our tour party was very small, being myself, Boon, and a Londoner with his Thai wife.

Our guide was a Thai guy in his mid twenties who was very friendly and funny and obviously took pride in his job, telling us all about the history of the lake and its islands. To my shame I didn’t actually take alot of it in, but only because I was awestruck at the natural beauty of the place. 971 We had two sessions kayaking, about an hour and a half, before taking lunch at the lakeside restaurant,( in the price of the tour) and about the same after.

As a child I often used to imagine paddling about in a kayak, down narrow waterways, and I reveled in a childhood dream come true.

108 The guide took us into a few interesting places such as a long cave tunnel, and also stopped us and walked us through a set of dry caves where there are ancient cave paintings.
In the afternoon the wind got up quite strong and the currents created in the narrow waterways made it quite hard work returning to base, but I was well up for it so it was ok.
THA POM KHLONG SONG NAM NATURE TRAIL
1141 When the kayaking was over, before heading home , the tour took us to a nearby nature trail which took in a fast running mountain stream, a short ‘safe’ section of which was set aside for swimming.
117 Testing the waters with my toe I quickly realised that the only way to get in was the sudden plunge. The water was so cold, but wonderfully refreshing.
A raised wooden walkway took us through the marshy mountain forest where there were many different plants, trees and butterflies to be seen.

120The tour guide was happy to stay as long as we wanted and we had about an hour there before heading back to the guest house.

We spent our last evening back down at Nopharatara beach , getting food there and watching the sunset before getting an early night ready for our trip home.

DAY 7…GETTING BACK UP NORTH, UNBOOKED, CHRISTMAS WEEK

In the end it was no great problem getting home. Refusing the TATs offers of help to buy premium rate flight or train tickets we winged it by going to the local bus station, where Boon informed me that they are under an obligation to run buses as long as there are people wanting to travel at this time of year because so many Thais travel to their respective family homes for the New Year.
So after the mild panic, we managed to get a ride back to Bangkok in a very packed, but comfortable, air-con coach and after a couple of hours at the terminal in Bangkok, got a similar ride home to Chiang Mai, which actually got us back into Chiang Mai in the afternoon of the next day.

All in all a great holiday.

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At last I’m back with free reign, or at least as free as Ally allows me, 555. Thanks again to ally for all her hard work dealing with my scatter brain antics on this site.

Happy to say that despite the problems in Bangkok, life goes on quite peacefully up here for now.

We are, at present, full rooms wise, but will probably have rooms available again tomorrow.

Just a couple of days ago we said a fond farewell to two lovely guests, Erica; (never loose that edge); and Brendan,(hmmmm), on a break from Canada and now either on their way or already in Cambodia.

Hope the rest of your travels go well and look forward to seeing you again sometime, which I’m sure we will.

The cool season is definitely with us now and you will find me in my suede jacket mornings and evenings; still can’t get over feeling cold at 25 degrees!

Some other friends we probably won’t see for a while as I guess they’ll be hibernating, are the local squirrel population who I caught having a mad run around the other morning.

And finally, a note for your diary, 6th of December, there will be a huge Merit making ceremony at 6am in Nimmanhemin Rd.

It is looking to be quite a big affair with over 11,000 monks gathering in one place.

If you are thinking of going anywhere near the area that morning, be warned, it will be very busy.

Proceedings start around 6am. So that means between 5 and 10 &am; it will be well attended.

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Ha ha , i know it its no where near Mothers Day , but my Mother is arriving next week, along with my sister Theresa, Niece Joanne, and her two kids Jamie and Sophie.

The morning market runOnce I got the morning Market run out of the way,  it was time to run around sorting out Air tickets for them all to travel up from Bangkok.

( i visit Muang Mai market, Chiang Mai..just about every single day and love it….look out for an upcoming feature..The Brick Road Market Run),

Their UK travel agent tried to charge them 100 pounds each … i got them for 40!!

Getting the Rooms ready? well as a guest house our rooms are always ready… just a good excuse to get rooms in the title :)

Well its still low season and I want as many of you room hunters out their to cotton on to the fact that we are not just a great eatery, but have spacious rooms available at some of the most reasonable room rates in Chiang Mai.

Ok got to e mail my Mum, let her know that her flight from Bangkok to Chiang Mai is  all booked with Air Asia.

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This is the account of my first arrival in Thailand and covers the first 3 months of my introduction to this wonderful country; full of culture, history, welcomes and smiles.

I won’t bore you with the details of exactly why I came to Thailand. Just to say that at the age of 42, having long been searching for some peace of mind, i finally decided to follow the advice of my closest friend. He had been telling me for ten years that Thailand was the place for me.

The final decision to come was relatively sudden, when, in December 2005, I booked a flight for January 13th 2006. having failed to find a like-minded travel companion, and determined not to spend the rest of my life just talking about it, I made a snap decision to get on with it and go it alone.

Taking advantage of modern technology, I pre-booked a guest house room, in Bangkok, for 3 nights, along with taxi transport from the airport, via the internet. Doing that went against my usual sense of adventure, but, knowing that I would be arriving on the back of a 14 hour journey, I was acutely aware that the hassle of sorting things when I got there would not be enjoyable.

BANGKOK

It was a bad time to arrive, a Friday, late afternoon, and the commuter traffic meant that the journey to the guest house took about 2 hours. By the time we reached the guest house, the driver had proclaimed himself my best friend and insisted that he would be my personal Bangkok guide.
My room cost me 450 baht,(around #6.50), at a quiet, Indian owned establishment, that seemed pleasant enough. The room was basic, but clean and comfortable, and came with air-con and TV, and en-suite toilet/shower room.

The first thing that really caught my eye in Thailand, having not taken a lot in during the Taxi ride, was the toilet in my room.

It was a western style flushing toilet, normal enough. But attached to the plumbing was a length of rubber hose with a small ‘shower head’ on the end.

With the complete absence of toilet paper or any sign of a toilet roll holder, it was immediately obvious what this attachment was for. Far from being perturbed, my first thought was, ‘ what a good idea’.

Deciding that I was still a little tired to explore Bangkok at night just yet, I checked out the excursions on offer in the guest house reception. Generally not a coach trip sort of guy, I had how ever, decided to treat myself to one such trip, to assist me with acclimatisation, before going more ‘freelance’, and chose a trip to Ayuthaya,( Thailands ancient capital), via Bang Pa In, and returning to Bangkok by boat.

That booked and my emails done, I popped into the guesthouse restaurant. Most of my fellow diners were Thai, but then a tall, elegantly dressed, European lady walked in. She was a lovely lady, and after telling her that I had already booked the trip for Saturday, we loosely agreed that we might further explore Bangkok together, on the Sunday. Things were going well, my first day there and I had already found a possible travel companion.

The next morning found me awake with the rising sun at around 6am. An early morning stroll around Bangkok is something I highly recommend to anyone. Such a contrast to the noise of the busy streets the evening before.

I headed off down the narrow back streets, passing many sleeping street dogs, some just stirring and starting out on their daily scavenges for food.

It was my first chance to explore different world of the medieval feeling back lanes of Bangkok. Nearly giving up any hope of finding any coffee, but enjoying the walk anyway, I eventually spotted an open shop, in the ground floor of an otherwise derelict looking, concrete building.

Obviously somewhat surprised to see a ‘farang’, the shopkeeper, nevertheless, greeted me with the sort of smile that Thailand is rightly famed for.

Inside the cafe, the rough concrete walls bore no paint. Along one wall was a row of folding metal tables with flimsy plastic chairs, barely able to take my weight. On the other side I asked for ‘Kafair’, and politely waited to take it from the lady behind the counter, I was ushered to a table, to be served shortly, with a very sweet, strong coffee, to rival the best of coffee houses, along with a glass of green tea and 2 doughnuts, all for the princely sum of 15 baht, ( around 20p). A bit wary of the combination of coffee and tea together, I found that they actually complimented each other well.

None of the people there spoke any English and my Thai only amounted to a couple of single words, and yet we had a wonderful ‘conversation ‘ full of laughs, smiles and friendly hand gestures.
As I savored the aromatic brew, I was introduced to another aspect of Thai life that fascinates me as a couple of Buddhist Monks appeared at the shop front. The shopkeepers immediately went out, bowing reverently, placing food offerings into the bowls held out by the Monks, and then, on their knees, were a couple of larger tables, acting as a counter, displaying Thai style doughnuts and various cakes and biscuits. Behind these tables was the cooking area, which housed two stone charcoal burners, one being used to boil water, in a large metal pan, and the other ready for cooking on.received blessings from the Monks in return.

As I made my way back to the guest house a short time later, I witnessed many more Monks and Novices, walking the streets and stopping to receive offerings from shopkeepers, children and many others wishing to make merit for the day

THE EXCURSION

Prices for these sorts of trips vary, and its definitely worth checking around before choosing, but I was happy with my ‘first dip’, the equivalent of around 15 pounds for the full day, taking in Bang Pa In, (the Royal Palace compound), Ayudthaya,(the ancient capital ruins), and a 4 hour boat trip back to Bangkok, with buffet meal included.

BANG PA IN

Certainly worth seeing, with its various styles of architecture and beautiful gardens. Included is the Grand Palace of the famed Chulalongkhorn, from ‘The King and I’, a must see for anyone interested in Thai history.

The 45 minutes we had there was, by, no means enough, to fully appreciate the mix of splendor and tranquility. I certainly hope to return there under my own steam some time, to spend more of a day there.

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