JAB?…John, Ally and Boon:). Yes after a long break from our road tours; mostly because of me being tied up with the sale of The Brick Road Cafe;  at long last me and Ally went out for one of our motorbike tours, and this time Boon came to.

bikesAs we needed to return to the motorbike market to complete the paperwork for the orange Wave we had agreed to meet Ally there at around 9am.

After sorting the paperwork and having a quick look at the bikes , we took coffee at Mee Mees’ before heading off on quite a lengthy tour.

First we cut across to the Doi Saket road and headed past Doi Saket into the mountains.

blackspringTaking the right hand turn towardds Ban Huaw Kaow, Ally first took us to what she called , ‘the alternative hot springs’. There is a Hot springs further up the main road, at Pong Nam Rorn, with a market and several food and drink outlets , which is used as a tour rest  stop.

This one appears to be an abandoned attempt to develop one deeper in the mountains.

chameleonThe water is, without a doubt, extremely hot , but is also disgustingly black in most of the pools and stinks to high heaven.

Interesting but not one to rush back to.For me the highlight of this visit was the small but proud looking chameleon we spotted.

A little further down the road we were ready for more coffee, we had been riding for an hour!

Ally, having done this road before, took us to The 196 Coffee Corner, a lovely little place that does extremely good fresh coffee at a fraction of the price you’d pay in town.

196coffeecorner We were met enthusiastically by the owners golden labrador who refused to stop barking until we’d all said hello.

If you get the chance, take a walk up the driveway and take a peek into their private garden which contains the owners collection of wood ‘scuplture’. Another gem of a place in the hills.

lunch5All caffeined up, on we went, wending our way through the hills working our way over to our main destination of Doi Khun Tan National Park. It was a long and beautiful ride. On the way we made a slight detour to our surprise lunch destination,(thanks again Ally), Tharntong Kitchen, at Tharntong Lodges. This wonderful place, nestled up in the mountain forests, with a mountain stream running through it, has been beautifully landscaped and has many wood cabins spotted around in which you can stay if you wish. With the cheapest room being 1,200 baht a night , its out of my usual budget; but for the stunning surroundings and excellent facilities, including top notch food, I’d say its worth it.

lunch15Treating myself to wild pig in red curry sauce, (120 baht..excellent quality and good portion),

I managed to swallow a whole bay leaf that got lodged in my throat, very nearly requiring the Heimlich maneuver, thankfully a good slap on the back from Boon dislodged it.

If you find this place I hopcockatoo6e you’ll get to say hello to the resident cockatoo who is extremely friendly and poses well for the camera. He was most gentle when taking the fruit that Ally offered.

So, happily fed, it came time to get back down to the road to Khun Tan.

We had turned off to the left for lunch, so it was back town and left back towards our destination, stopping briefly at the Cosmo Petrol station to refuel the bikes.

roughroadAnother long, but very enjoyable ride, through more stunning scenery.

There was a long stretch where the tarmac road disintegrated into mud and gravel base, but the slow bumpy ride was worth it as it took us to one of the best view points, overlooking the Mae On Valley.

Ally warned me to take a deep breath as we walked the few steps off the road to the view point, and well I needed to. It was quite a sight indeed and we were lucky with the weather, so stormy in recent days, sunny and clear giving a crisp few for miles around.

maaeonvalleyview

After spending some time socking in the splendor of the valley below, we carried on down the road that would take , first through the valley and then on to Khun Tan. A few kilometres on we were back on to tarmac and very soon took a stop at Wat Maer Takai.

wat7This relatively modest compound holds some beautiful Temple buildings.

But the most interesting feature is the huge and varied amount of images;

Buddha to Ganesh to King Rama and more.

That said, the front of the main temple building is also stunning in its artwork.

From here we then rode on, following our leader Ally , who took us into the National Park area and up to Khun Tan Railway station.

khuntan5What a beautiful spot, its like something out of The Railway Children, with palm trees. Lovingly landscaped and manicured, you feel you are waiting in somebodies garden rather than a station. We came across a group of farang who had been staying in lodges and had a little gripe about how long they had been waiting for the train to come. I could only remark about what a wonderful place to have to wait.

khuntantrainWe stayed for coffee and saw their train arrive, exiting the tunnel from the mountain, that looks too small from the platform.

Look out for the Khun Tan butterflies basking in the sun.

This quiant surprise of a place is well worth a visit, another one of those spots to kill some time in my sort of ‘comfort’.

maethastationWe had had a long ride through the day, so from here it was basically continuing on to meet the Highway 11 at Mae Ta, where we also visited the train station. Although not in quite such a stunning location, this station was equally well cared for and landscaped, where waiting for a train could only be a joy.

Heading back down the highway towards Chiang Mai, another 20 odd kilometres got us home to Lamphun, where Ally stopped for coffee and to get her long lost memory card. Next week Ally?

For more photos from this day please visit our photobucket album here.

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Sunday

100_6116 Yet another trip into Chiang Mai. This time it was back to the second hand motorcy market to get the registration book for the bike we bought last week.

Boon had got up early and gone off to the massage course at Wat Chetupon. I had a lazy start, chilling out at home, before popping over to the Childrens Home, at around 11am, to return their collection box and to see if Marc was interested in going to the bike market. He needs his own transport and has a pretty limited budget right now.

Marc was well up for it , so, with him aboard the old motorcy, we drove in to meet Boon at the Temple. Boon was nowhere to be seen when we arrived, and when I phoned him up it was clear that we’d had one of our many misunderstandings, when he told me he was waiting at the motorbike market.

paperworkFinally meeting him there, we went to Mee Mee Cafe for ice coffee before going to check out the bikes.

This place is definitely the place to look if you are in the market for your own bike. Held every Sunday, there is always a wide range of motorbikes for sale, from older model motorcys and 2 strokes from around 5000 baht , more recent models from 15-25-30,000, to range of choppers for 35-55,000.

Its easy to find as well; just take the Phrao road off the super highway and it is just after the first main intersection on the left hand side.

There is also a reasonable selection of second hand cars, as well as a general market to browse.

Boon had already picked up the paperwork for our new Honda Wave, bought last week for 20,000 baht.

rogerand-sambillAs we searched around for something in the 5-6000 bracket for Marc, we bumped into a few old faces we had got to know as customers in The Brick Road Cafe; Roger , Sam and Bill.

In the end, after much deliberation Boon and I decided to let Marc buy our old Honda Wave for 6000 baht. We will be selling the JRD and putting the money together to get a second newer Honda Wave.

Still far too early for the Sunday Market in town , we killed time checking out the general Market stalls and taking one more coffee at Mee Mees, before heading into The Old City.

We made a stop on the way, on the Mae Rim road,( just short of the Moat, just before the local Chiang Mai bus station), for Marc to purchase a crash helmet.(299 baht)

brcThen it was in to The Brick Road to say ‘hi’ to the staff , chill with a cold drink and watch the Sunday Walking Street Market set up. We actually hung out for a couple of hours, and I couldn’t resist ordering a plate of those great British Chips, still the best in town. After saying hello to a few of our old market stall friends we headed back home at around 5.30pm as it began to threaten rain.

marcbuysourbikeComing back to the house first, to find the Honda registration book for Marc, we then rode over to the Childrens Home. Marcs only just learning on a motorcy, having had a couple of lessons from Guy at the home, so it was a slow ride over with me and Boon leading the way.

Marc wanted to take us to see what will hopefully be his new home soon, a local thai house next to the school where he will be working. Unfortunately he couldn’t quite remember its location in the dark so we abandoned that and Boon and I came home.

For more photos from sunday please visit our photobucket album here.

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The missed mention is that of an early morning Sunday procession down Ratchadamnoen Rd. A colourful affair with a group of the colorful boy ‘Princes’ on miniature horse back leading a group of very young ‘pre-novices’ all dressed in their white robes and clutching Lotus flowers.
frustratingly, my camera battery went flat after just two clicks, must remember to carry a spare.

Boy Princes
busy sunday
busy sunday

The madness was Sunday evening, pleasantly busy but high stress for me coping with trying to train new staff without the time to do it. Still we coped and as far as i could see all our customers were happy, and that’s whats important.

lovely guesthouse guest Kirsten

lovely guesthouse guest Kirsten

Thanks alot to Kirsten, spending time with us while she prepares to move on to India.

She spent much time chatting to my Mum after the rest of the family had retired and I was busy pulling my hair out and slipping in and out of Basil Fawlty mode as I’m apt to do under stress.

Back to the family visit and Friday which mainly involved a visit to Central Shopping Plaza, Kad Suan kaow, on Huay Kaow rd.

Various things were needed, sandals for Jamie, sunblock, mobile phone, travelers needs. Being a hot day and the kids still suffering a little, Kad Suan Kaow seemed the best option.

First stop was a shoe shop on the ground floor who were most insistent that i did not take photographs inside their shop; so i didn’t. I’m not much of a shopper, especially in a group, so I snuck off to my haven for Ice Coffee. Boon however, was in his element and stuck with the family.

Photo outside shop

Photo outside shop

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Been a little busy over the last couple of days, what with the family arriving in Chiang mai last Wednesday, and then the rest of our rooms filling up too.

We closed for two days, Tuesday and Wednesday, partly to ensure the rooms we all sorted to their best and partly for me to have some proper rest to calm my nervous energies. Would my family like the cafe, would they be Ok with just the fan rooms? Would they like Chiang Mai?

On Wednesday Boon and I took time out, visting the 999 Thai cafe on the corner of Moon Muang Soi 9, for a late lunch before heading over for a little stroll and coffee in the Night Bazaar and then over to Boons workplace, Relax and Enjoy Massage, for a Thai Massage, before heading up to the airport to meet my family, due to arrive at 8.20pm from Bangkok.

late lunch in Moonmuang, Chiang Mai Early Night Bazaar

delayed my family wait for their bags

Getting to the Airport at 8.10 we were met by the arrivals sign informing us that the plane was delayed until 9.05pm.

Finally, after more coffee, cigarettes, and trying to remember whether I’d opened the windows to air the rooms properly, we got first sight of my family coming through the baggage claims at around 9.30pm.

As expected everyone was well exhausted, poor little Jamie sleep walking his way through it all.

After warm welcomes, it was into the Airport Taxi, and off back to Ratchadamnoen Rd. If you don’t already know, the Airport Taxi  rate is fixed at 120 baht to anywhere within the city limits. And although they did their best to get us to use two taxis , we eventually got a CRV for the same price.

Back here at the Brick Road Cafe, it was pretty much get the backs in, brief chat and everyone off to bed.

My family in Chiang Mai R&R in Ratchadamnoen Rd Chiang Mai

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Welcome to the brand new TALIT blog pages. here i will do my best to keep a log of our daily progress, improvements, interesting events, etc

Our rooms here in Chiang Mai have been open for 6 days now. We presently have 5 guests staying. Tony, from France; here for a month; Marc and Pip, from good old Blighty; and a mother and daughter from Germany.

Marc and Pip found us last night and after a great jamming session with Marc on guitar , me on flute and Big, our waiter on congas, they promised to return today and did so to book in for two nights.

Shortly after we had the mother and daughter come after being sent by Marc and Pip. Still pretty quiet business wise today but ok. I enjoyed a foot massage this morning, a much needed pick me up.

Boon and I went and purchased the second 3rd tv for room 5.

And this evening we ad an entertaining evening with Pip and Marc , more jamming and a very drunk Israeli guy who decided to try and come in just before midnight , refused to leave and myself and Marc ended up escorting him round the corner at the crossroads and sending him on his way to look for a hostel, having to drag him away from Wat Chedi Luang Temple entrance where he tried to reach through the gate and grab the novices who were watching the fun. Its now 1am and all guests bar Tony are in. Boons on night duty and i should get some sleep.

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The bane of initial living in Thailand has to be the visa run. As a non immigrant B visa holder I have to do this once, every 3 months. During the previous year, when I was on Travel visa, it was once a month after my visa ran out.

There are a few different options with Travel visas. As a UK citizen, you can arrive in Thailand without a visa and get an ‘on-entry’ visa for 30days. Since the law changed last year, you can now only do 2 visa runs if you wish to extend your stay at the end of that 30 days. The maximum stay on travel visa, now being 90 days, after which you are not allowed to return for at least another 90 days.

Alternatively, you can apply for a Travel visa from one of the Thai Consulates in the UK before you leave. If you do this it is possible to get a 60 day visa. Obviously, if you wish to extend this, you will only be able to get 30 more days.

To extend your visit once your visa runs out you must leave the country and then re-enter to receive that 30 day ‘on entry’ stamp. PhotobucketThis can be done at any of the main border crossings with Thailand’s neighbouring countries. The easiest, and cheapest open for me , here in Chiang Mai is to cross into Burma at Maesai.

In Chiang Mai you will find many companies offering ‘visa run’ bus trips to the various border crossings.You may wish to take this option as a chance to meet fellow travelers.

But if you are looking for the cheapest option, for the short term visitor, I suggest taking the local ‘green bus’ to Maesai. this journey takes around 5 hours, with a change at Chiang Rai. best to get the 6 am bus if you want to return to Chiang Mai on the same day, as the last bus leaves at around 2.30pm from Maesai.

I have done that bus trip many times and it can be great fun, depending on your fellow passengers and yourself. Be aware that it is not for the faint hearted, as the drivers often appear to think they are in a grand prix, which can bring on many ‘check your pants’ moments when navigating the winding mountain passes.

Also, don’t be expecting air conditioning, but the buses are usually well ventilated with several fans all the way up the bus.

With my visa deadline upon me? I chose, this time, to do the visa run on my motorbike.

Advice for doing the same:..do leave early if you wish to do this in one day; it took us about 14 and a half hours in total…..don’t forget to wrap up warm, and ideally buy some gloves and a woolly hat, as it gets damn cold up in those mountains early in the morning.

Looking for Brass Monkeys

So off we went at 5.20am. Knowing that it was likely to be a bit on the chilly side, at that time in the morning, I had dressed in t shirt, long sleeved shirt, jumper and my thick jacket. Boon, despite my urging him to put more on, stuck with t shirt and suede jacket.

It only takes about 45 minutes to get to the first mountain range and we were soon praying to find a shop open to buy more protection against the distinctly cold conditions.

PhotobucketAt least the roads were nice and empty, mind I still had to go careful as, even when its dark here , you get that annoying level of light where its hard to see but your headlights don’t make the difference you would like.

Thankfully we found a little shop open, not too far into the mountains where we made our first stop after about an hour.

I was well cold myself but poor Boon had to resort to warming himself with the bike engine, before we went to the shop and bought gloves for both of us and a balaclava for Boon.

Sunrise at Pong Nam Hot Springs

The gloves definitely helped but I was also desperately in need of some hot coffee, which that shop did not sell. So about half an hour further down the road, we stopped again, when we spotted a coffee shop open at Pong Nam Ron Hot Springs. It was perfect timing as the sun was just coming up.
Photobucket Photobucket

Coffee, Carp & a Haystack

Aware that the mountain roads were hard work on the bike and still waiting for significant change in the temperature we stopped again, about an hour and a half further on, for more coffee and an in depth discussion on Buddhism, whilst watching the Koi Carp in the cafes pond.

Leaving there at about 9.15 we cracked on for quite a distance, stopping briefly to divest ourselves of our jackets as the sun finally started to hot up.

Our next rest stop was at around 11.15 at one of the many roadside shade shelters, where we had canned coffee, bought earlier at Pong Nam, and fried noodles that we bought the night before,mmmmmmmmmm. And in the nearby field I spotted one of my personal favourite things in Thailand, a haystack.

Burma & back in 20 minutes

We were past Chiang Rai by then, having narrowly escaped the riding license check point they had set up by one of the junctions there, (I forgot to take mine with me).

Keen to get the main job of the day done, we then carried on the rest of the way to Maesai, arriving at a little before midday.

We managed to park very close to the border control and I left Boon waiting by the bike whilst I went of to sort the visa.

First stop is the exit office where you get stamped out. Then its a couple of minutes walk across ‘Friendship Bridge’ to Burma and the passport control office there.

You hand your passport to the smiling passport officer on the left along with 500 baht, or $10.

PhotobucketThen you take your turn sitting in front of the nearby desks where the computer operator takes your photos and enters your details, producing and entry card. A portion of this card is then put with your passport which remains in the office for collection on your return.

You do have the option to return to Thailand immediately, although you will see the smile rapidly recede from the passport officers face if you do. It is generally polite to go and spend at least an hour at the nearby shopping streets in Tha Ki Lahk.

This time I chanced the immediate return telling a little white lie that I had a bus to catch; and, seeing my long term visa and previous stamps, the officer wasn’t too upset, saying, ‘you shop next time’.

Taking the short walk back to Thailand, there is a arrival and departure form to fill in before handing your passport in for your stamp.

There is a sign informing you that you need to show at least 10,000 baht funds to receive an entry visa but I have never been asked for this.

For non-immigrant visa holders it is 20,000 baht and I did take my Thai bank book just in case.

So, within 20 minutes I was back in Thailand with my fresh stamp.

Scorpion View Point

About 200ms before the border point, on the left hand side of the main street is a side road that leads through a busy market, up the hill to the Scorpion Temple, where there sits a Giant Scorpion statue, overlooking Burma. We decided to go take a look before heading back home.

From here you can see the huge sprawling mass that is Ta Ki Lahk.

If you do plan to spend anytime in Burma, be aware that travel from Ta Ki Lahl is allowed by special tour only or flight, no unauthorised overland travel is permitted.

Back to Chiang Mai

On the way up we had received a message from Boons brother that his wifes mother, who lives in Maesai was cooking and hearing that we were on our way, had invited us to call in.

So after our brief visit to the Scorpion view point, we did just that. Unfortunately the meal she had cooked had long since been eaten but we still stopped for a while and I was given a hand rolled cigarette, made from the tobacco processed on the premises, in a tall brick chimney.

Apparently they supply such companies as LM and Wonder.

Very nice but I have to say that I only smoked a couple of cms of it, in deference to my lungs.

Aware that time was ticking on and we had a long ride home we set off again from there a little before 2pm. Having missed lunch in Maesai, we stopped at a cafe on the main road, just before Chiang Rai and had a very tasty bowl of noodle soup.

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