Now, for this trip you will need, either extensive local knowledge, a local guide, or a friend like Ally with an amazing GPS machine that shows you all the lanes and tracks that you wouldn’t know were there.
We had arranged to meet at the point where we had parted company last week.
It was an absolute scorcher of a day and I chose to wait a little way down the road where i found some shade and watched a local farmer attending his field.
Spotting Ally shooting past I went to catch her up….ok truth is I hadn’t quite been able to remember exactly where we parted company last week, which was just a little further up the San Kampaeng Hot Springs road,(1317) from where I was waiting at the turn off to the Alpine Golf Resort, and Banthi.
Ally had promised more hills, lakes and a Cave Temple this week, so off we went heading out towards San Kampaeng Hot springs but almost immediately turning off onto a dirt track that follows the irrigation canal there.
The canal wends its way through the hills , disappearing into the hillside at one point. Working our way around, getting some real smells of the countryside, past pig farms and paddy fields, we rejoined the canal a little further on. We were passed at one point by a local lady villager who looked none too happy and appeared to be voicing her displeasure.
I couldn’t help wondering whether it was concern about seeing ‘tourists’, with many reports putting the blame for recent outbreaks of swine flu in Thailand on to international travelers.
Whereas the terrain along this canal route was not especially exciting , sometimes it is enough just to be away from the main drags, surrounded by trees and passing through genuine rural communities, and then out of nowhere coming across…a Temple.
I would have missed it completely, riding along in my semi-meditative state, but Allys keen eyes spotted the tip of the Chedi sticking out through the trees.
It had quite an extensive compound and although it appeared to have been somewhat neglected, there were signs of ongoing refurbishment and it clearly has the potential to become an impressive site, as I am sure it had been in the past.
With no English translations we had to photograph the Temple name sign for translation later to Wat Doi Zill.
I really have to remember to have breakfast before starting these rides, as once again the hunger pangs hit, with no great prospect of finding any cafes along this route. However, Ally assured me that the lake we were heading for had eating facilities and it wasn’t too much further.
Reaching our first planned destination was delayed a little when we took a diversion, turning right, across a small bridge over the canal, to another reservoir, that appeared on Allys GPS, as Thi Reservoir; not to be mistaken for the Thi reservoir we visited last week, a few miles away at Banthi.
Another popular fishing spot it was another beauty, nestled in amongst the heavily wooded hills. Spotting a track that was not on the GPS, but looked as if it either went around the lake or possibly might lead back to the canal, we took a chance and followed it.
The track ended up veering off into the forest, and although we continued into the trees a ways we turned back when it was clear that there were no other visible motorbike tracks.
The greater possibility was of getting horribly lost and delayed. By then we were both too hungry to risk that.
Heading back to the canal and soon returning to tarmac we headed right,up to Huai Hong Khai 7 , a huge reservoir. Riding into the government buildings there, Ally pointed out the restaurant. Food at last!
Unfortunately the restaurant was occupied by a private party and not open to the public.
Jumping back on the bikes we went onto Huai Hong Khai 2, site of the Royal Project buildings. It didn’t look hopeful for food here either, but , after taking a look at the fish farm there, as we were leaving the site we spotted a covered platform over the edge of the lake, with tables, chairs, A CHEF! and A WAITER!!
Ally asked if they were open..my heart sank as they told us that they were not a restaurant, but simply catering for a visiting coach party that had yet to arrive. About to leave and carry on the search, holding our empty tummys and looking despondent, we were stopped by these delightful people who quickly called out, ” mah, mah”…(‘come, come’).
The coach party were clearly late and the caterers took pity on us and promptly laid out 4 different dishes plus rice and water. A much nicer lunch than we would likely have bought elsewhere. The chef and waiter were very friendly and chatted with us for a while and refused to let us pay, although we did insist on leaving a tip.
All nicely fuelled up we then headed on and found the nearby Childrens Shelter. This place is in quite extensive grounds and home at the moment to 37 children from 1 yr old to 22 years old.
The staff were very friendly and welcoming and immediately invited us to a party at Joys House, (run by one of the founders of the Shelter). I did accept the invitation but have to apologise for not attending. By the end of this bike trip I was shattered and ended up collapsing in a heap in my armchair and falling asleep.
I do intend to return to the shelter very soon and do a full feature, as I was very impressed with the look of the set up and would love to find out more.
It was not so far then to the 3005 where we went to the 196 Coffee Corner. Ally is now good friends with the proprietors, Khun Keung and Khun Chai, a lovely Thai couple. Whilst we chatted and drank our coffee they handed us bananas from their own trees, deliciously sweet and great with the coffee.
Continuing on round to Mae On and turning right just past the San Kampaeng Hot Springs, we then rode up to the Mueng Mae On Cave Temple.
A stickler for equality Ally refused to pay the 10 baht parking fee and also demanded the 10baht ‘local’ ticket for the cave , as opposed to the 20 baht ‘farang’ ticket that was first produced.
I appreciate Allys feelings but couldn’t be bothered to argue and paid the parking..i didn’t have the problem with the cave ticket cos Ally had already paid.
Be warned, the steps here are deceptively steep, especially if you’re an out of shape smoker. Luckily there are not so many. But still, by the time we got to the viewing platform I did wonder how on earth I made it up the steps in Krabi 2 years ago.
A few more steps and we reached the Cave entrance. Taking a few moments to control my claustrophobia, we took the first steps down, into the cave, backwards through the first small opening. Once inside the claustrophobia was not a problem as the caves are vast and airy.
The bigger problem for me was more steep steps to the lower levels.
No problem going down, but with only one entrance that meant we had to go back up them.
By the end of the visit I had much more incentive for many more Gym visits and to stop smoking.
We detoured on the route home, through San Kampaeng, navigating our way through the Saturday Street Market and on to a Coffee shop on the way to Bo Sang.
After a very sweet Ice Coffee for me, and ‘not black’ black Coffee for Ally, we said our farewells and look forward to next weeks ride.
For more photos visit our photobucket album here and for better directions visit Allys site here.
Our start point was Wat Pang Yuu, which you will find by taking the Hang Dong turn off Highway 11, the one that actually carries on to Samoeng. The Temple is on the left with the entry road being just before the river bridge.
Ally informed me that, although it was not the first time she had visited , she was very impressed with what is clearly a relatively recent facelift. On her previous visit it had apparently been a very run down and neglected place.
Also, don’t miss the ancient looking Buddha scene, under the trees to the left of the pond. Though not lavishly painted like the newer statues you see from the road, for me this image has the real Buddha spirit about it somehow.
And very nice it was to. The River Ping, away from the city centre, certainly on this stretch towards Lamphun, has a wonderfully relaxing effect and a look that belies its size and strength. With the many ancient overhanging trees, floating water plants and its many twists and turns it feels more like a beautiful winding stream.
Didn’t actually get the name of the place but it appears to be a Thai concern, that, the lady who served us our coffee informed us, specializes in fish dishes along with other common Thai options. It is right on the river bank, looking towards the large weir we would visit shortly after. A lovely quiet place for coffee and a very likely meal out place in the future, being not so far from home.
after coffee it was just a couple of minutes ride before we reached the impressive looking weir, which looks to be a fairly new addition, or has at least been recently refurbished and acts also as a river crossing for pedestrians and motorcys. It is at this point that the canal system for Lamphun starts. The surrounding area is quiet lovely, with a nice size gazebo on the banks of the canal, which was occupied by a friendly bunch of local youngsters at the time.
All along the way, apart from the river there are several amazing buildings, from lavish homes to ‘wild shacks’ as Ally calls them.
On the way back to Chiang Mai we spotted a few fishermen in the water hauling nets; stopped for lunch at a local Thai outlet, very tasty food and only 20 baht!;
and shortly before parting at 1.30 , took a short detour to a very nice coffee shop just off the super highway.
