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Yes, this time it was just me and Ally, Somboons not so keen on hot day rides, shame ‘cos it was a nice easy ride, no hills and plenty of shade.

Our choice for the day was to take an easy ride up and down the River Ping.

12Our start point was Wat Pang Yuu, which you will find by taking the Hang Dong turn off Highway 11, the one that actually carries on to Samoeng. The Temple is on the left with the entry road being just before the river bridge.

We met up at around 10.30 and started the journey with a stroll around Wat Pang Yuu. I have been seeing this Temple and its impressive array of statues for quite sometime no as I passed by on the highway between the main Hang Dong road and Highway 11 and have long been promising myself a visit.

wat-pang-yuuAlly informed me that, although it was not the first time she had visited , she was very impressed with what is clearly a relatively recent facelift. On her previous visit it had apparently been a very run down and neglected place.

It is the many large Buddha images that catch your eye from the highway but there are more nice surprises when you get inside the Temple compound.

There are an incredible number of Buddha statues, both large and small. Then, to the rear of the compound you come across a beautiful Vihara surrounded by an extensive pond.

18Also, don’t miss the ancient looking Buddha scene, under the trees to the left of the pond. Though not lavishly painted like the newer statues you see from the road, for me this image has the real Buddha spirit about it somehow.

Many photographs later we left the Temple, from the front entrance gate that overlooks the river, and headed left toward Lamphun.

This day was a nice contrast to some of our rides that involve many kilometres and several destinations. On this day the only real plan was a relaxed ride up and down the river.

44And very nice it was to. The River Ping, away from the city centre, certainly on this stretch towards Lamphun, has a wonderfully relaxing effect and a look that belies its size and strength. With the many ancient overhanging trees, floating water plants and its many twists and turns it feels more like a beautiful winding stream.

As always my craving for coffee was early to raise its head and we were on the look out for a place to stop. Around 10-15 minutes ride from the Temple we found what should end up being a great riverside rest point. At the moment it is clearly still under construction, but was nevertheless open.

32Didn’t actually get the name of the place but it appears to be a Thai concern, that, the lady who served us our coffee informed us, specializes in fish dishes along with other common Thai options. It is right on the river bank, looking towards the large weir we would visit shortly after. A lovely quiet place for coffee and a very likely meal out place in the future, being not so far from home.

So,35 after coffee it was just a couple of minutes ride before we reached the impressive looking weir, which looks to be a fairly new addition, or has at least been recently refurbished and acts also as a river crossing for pedestrians and motorcys. It is at this point that the canal system for Lamphun starts. The surrounding area is quiet lovely, with a nice size gazebo on the banks of the canal, which was occupied by a friendly bunch of local youngsters at the time.

Although we didn’t visit anymore on this trip, there are several riverside Temples along the way, so expect some reports on those in the coming weeks.

Indeed, what we found on this route, was not so many ‘attractions’, other than the river itself, which was fine by me. There was plenty of interest. Just before we crossed the river and headed back to Chiang Mai down the other side, about 15 minutes ride after the weir, we saw some new,(to me), birdlife.

52All along the way, apart from the river there are several amazing buildings, from lavish homes to ‘wild shacks’ as Ally calls them.

For more ‘wild shacks’ please visit Allys site, where you will also get much better route information thanks to Allys excellent GPS machine.

46On the way back to Chiang Mai we spotted a few fishermen in the water hauling nets; stopped for lunch at a local Thai outlet, very tasty food and only 20 baht!;

called in at Ban Nam Ping, which is a riverside Hotel which has rooms from 1500 baht a night or 30 nights for 30,000,(out of my budget, but for those of you in that range for your holiday it looked like a very nice location, with a buffet restaurant from 150 baht, a small swimming pool and kayaks, free to hotel guests or 100 baht an hour to walk in customers);

54and shortly before parting at 1.30 , took a short detour to a very nice coffee shop just off the super highway.

After leaving Ally I carried on down the river road which eventually brings you onto ChangKlan road and into town where I met Boon at The Brick Road Cafe.

Just a short trip this time , around 4 hours in all from Wat Pang Yuu, at a very easy pace.

For more photos please visit our photobucket album here

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Free WifiIt goes without saying that when you are travelling abroad and want to stay somewhere you can call your home for a while, you really do need to to be able to chill out, take things easy and have all you would have in your home at your finger tips !

This week we have installed Wireless Internet Access and provide WiFi for all our customers – FREE !

So not only can you wake up to a traditional English Breakfast, savour the delights of Fresh Ground Roasted Coffee and watch the world come to life around you on the streets of Chiang Mai but now you can check your mail and surf the internet whilst doing so too.

Now that is a very good reason to visit the Brick Road Cafe & Guest House.

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Been a little busy over the last couple of days, what with the family arriving in Chiang mai last Wednesday, and then the rest of our rooms filling up too.

We closed for two days, Tuesday and Wednesday, partly to ensure the rooms we all sorted to their best and partly for me to have some proper rest to calm my nervous energies. Would my family like the cafe, would they be Ok with just the fan rooms? Would they like Chiang Mai?

On Wednesday Boon and I took time out, visting the 999 Thai cafe on the corner of Moon Muang Soi 9, for a late lunch before heading over for a little stroll and coffee in the Night Bazaar and then over to Boons workplace, Relax and Enjoy Massage, for a Thai Massage, before heading up to the airport to meet my family, due to arrive at 8.20pm from Bangkok.

late lunch in Moonmuang, Chiang Mai Early Night Bazaar

delayed my family wait for their bags

Getting to the Airport at 8.10 we were met by the arrivals sign informing us that the plane was delayed until 9.05pm.

Finally, after more coffee, cigarettes, and trying to remember whether I’d opened the windows to air the rooms properly, we got first sight of my family coming through the baggage claims at around 9.30pm.

As expected everyone was well exhausted, poor little Jamie sleep walking his way through it all.

After warm welcomes, it was into the Airport Taxi, and off back to Ratchadamnoen Rd. If you don’t already know, the Airport Taxi  rate is fixed at 120 baht to anywhere within the city limits. And although they did their best to get us to use two taxis , we eventually got a CRV for the same price.

Back here at the Brick Road Cafe, it was pretty much get the backs in, brief chat and everyone off to bed.

My family in Chiang Mai R&R in Ratchadamnoen Rd Chiang Mai

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The bane of initial living in Thailand has to be the visa run. As a non immigrant B visa holder I have to do this once, every 3 months. During the previous year, when I was on Travel visa, it was once a month after my visa ran out.

There are a few different options with Travel visas. As a UK citizen, you can arrive in Thailand without a visa and get an ‘on-entry’ visa for 30days. Since the law changed last year, you can now only do 2 visa runs if you wish to extend your stay at the end of that 30 days. The maximum stay on travel visa, now being 90 days, after which you are not allowed to return for at least another 90 days.

Alternatively, you can apply for a Travel visa from one of the Thai Consulates in the UK before you leave. If you do this it is possible to get a 60 day visa. Obviously, if you wish to extend this, you will only be able to get 30 more days.

To extend your visit once your visa runs out you must leave the country and then re-enter to receive that 30 day ‘on entry’ stamp. PhotobucketThis can be done at any of the main border crossings with Thailand’s neighbouring countries. The easiest, and cheapest open for me , here in Chiang Mai is to cross into Burma at Maesai.

In Chiang Mai you will find many companies offering ‘visa run’ bus trips to the various border crossings.You may wish to take this option as a chance to meet fellow travelers.

But if you are looking for the cheapest option, for the short term visitor, I suggest taking the local ‘green bus’ to Maesai. this journey takes around 5 hours, with a change at Chiang Rai. best to get the 6 am bus if you want to return to Chiang Mai on the same day, as the last bus leaves at around 2.30pm from Maesai.

I have done that bus trip many times and it can be great fun, depending on your fellow passengers and yourself. Be aware that it is not for the faint hearted, as the drivers often appear to think they are in a grand prix, which can bring on many ‘check your pants’ moments when navigating the winding mountain passes.

Also, don’t be expecting air conditioning, but the buses are usually well ventilated with several fans all the way up the bus.

With my visa deadline upon me? I chose, this time, to do the visa run on my motorbike.

Advice for doing the same:..do leave early if you wish to do this in one day; it took us about 14 and a half hours in total…..don’t forget to wrap up warm, and ideally buy some gloves and a woolly hat, as it gets damn cold up in those mountains early in the morning.

Looking for Brass Monkeys

So off we went at 5.20am. Knowing that it was likely to be a bit on the chilly side, at that time in the morning, I had dressed in t shirt, long sleeved shirt, jumper and my thick jacket. Boon, despite my urging him to put more on, stuck with t shirt and suede jacket.

It only takes about 45 minutes to get to the first mountain range and we were soon praying to find a shop open to buy more protection against the distinctly cold conditions.

PhotobucketAt least the roads were nice and empty, mind I still had to go careful as, even when its dark here , you get that annoying level of light where its hard to see but your headlights don’t make the difference you would like.

Thankfully we found a little shop open, not too far into the mountains where we made our first stop after about an hour.

I was well cold myself but poor Boon had to resort to warming himself with the bike engine, before we went to the shop and bought gloves for both of us and a balaclava for Boon.

Sunrise at Pong Nam Hot Springs

The gloves definitely helped but I was also desperately in need of some hot coffee, which that shop did not sell. So about half an hour further down the road, we stopped again, when we spotted a coffee shop open at Pong Nam Ron Hot Springs. It was perfect timing as the sun was just coming up.
Photobucket Photobucket

Coffee, Carp & a Haystack

Aware that the mountain roads were hard work on the bike and still waiting for significant change in the temperature we stopped again, about an hour and a half further on, for more coffee and an in depth discussion on Buddhism, whilst watching the Koi Carp in the cafes pond.

Leaving there at about 9.15 we cracked on for quite a distance, stopping briefly to divest ourselves of our jackets as the sun finally started to hot up.

Our next rest stop was at around 11.15 at one of the many roadside shade shelters, where we had canned coffee, bought earlier at Pong Nam, and fried noodles that we bought the night before,mmmmmmmmmm. And in the nearby field I spotted one of my personal favourite things in Thailand, a haystack.

Burma & back in 20 minutes

We were past Chiang Rai by then, having narrowly escaped the riding license check point they had set up by one of the junctions there, (I forgot to take mine with me).

Keen to get the main job of the day done, we then carried on the rest of the way to Maesai, arriving at a little before midday.

We managed to park very close to the border control and I left Boon waiting by the bike whilst I went of to sort the visa.

First stop is the exit office where you get stamped out. Then its a couple of minutes walk across ‘Friendship Bridge’ to Burma and the passport control office there.

You hand your passport to the smiling passport officer on the left along with 500 baht, or $10.

PhotobucketThen you take your turn sitting in front of the nearby desks where the computer operator takes your photos and enters your details, producing and entry card. A portion of this card is then put with your passport which remains in the office for collection on your return.

You do have the option to return to Thailand immediately, although you will see the smile rapidly recede from the passport officers face if you do. It is generally polite to go and spend at least an hour at the nearby shopping streets in Tha Ki Lahk.

This time I chanced the immediate return telling a little white lie that I had a bus to catch; and, seeing my long term visa and previous stamps, the officer wasn’t too upset, saying, ‘you shop next time’.

Taking the short walk back to Thailand, there is a arrival and departure form to fill in before handing your passport in for your stamp.

There is a sign informing you that you need to show at least 10,000 baht funds to receive an entry visa but I have never been asked for this.

For non-immigrant visa holders it is 20,000 baht and I did take my Thai bank book just in case.

So, within 20 minutes I was back in Thailand with my fresh stamp.

Scorpion View Point

About 200ms before the border point, on the left hand side of the main street is a side road that leads through a busy market, up the hill to the Scorpion Temple, where there sits a Giant Scorpion statue, overlooking Burma. We decided to go take a look before heading back home.

From here you can see the huge sprawling mass that is Ta Ki Lahk.

If you do plan to spend anytime in Burma, be aware that travel from Ta Ki Lahl is allowed by special tour only or flight, no unauthorised overland travel is permitted.

Back to Chiang Mai

On the way up we had received a message from Boons brother that his wifes mother, who lives in Maesai was cooking and hearing that we were on our way, had invited us to call in.

So after our brief visit to the Scorpion view point, we did just that. Unfortunately the meal she had cooked had long since been eaten but we still stopped for a while and I was given a hand rolled cigarette, made from the tobacco processed on the premises, in a tall brick chimney.

Apparently they supply such companies as LM and Wonder.

Very nice but I have to say that I only smoked a couple of cms of it, in deference to my lungs.

Aware that time was ticking on and we had a long ride home we set off again from there a little before 2pm. Having missed lunch in Maesai, we stopped at a cafe on the main road, just before Chiang Rai and had a very tasty bowl of noodle soup.

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This tour took place in January and involved myself and Somboon traveling by motorbike, (150cc JRD Chopper), and Somboons father who traveled by bus.

Riding time from Chiang Mai to Thaton, approximately 5 hours, with stops.

Bus journey time approximately 4 hours.

Day 1

It should first be acknowledged that having investing a slightly more powerful bike, with a much more comfortable seat, this trip was much more enjoyable and traveling times cut tremendously compared to using the less powerful motorcycle.

We left Chiang Mai at around 12.30pm. Our original target was Mae Ai, where Boons father hoped to find an old Monk from his past to advise him on the auspiciousness of starting a new business.

For the most part, the road to Thaton is very good and the ride up there was fantastic, going through some of the most spectacular scenery I have seen yet.

The lush greens of the Thai mountain forests never cease to take my breath away, and there is so much of it on the road to Thaton. Being in an almost constant state of ‘WOW’, it was quite a quiet trip, mostly because words were useless in the face of such natural beauty.

We stopped at a quiet little place called Tam Daang, about halfway through the roadworks, for a rest and a coffee.

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And a little later we stopped again at a quiet one street town, Chai Prahkan, where we got something to eat at a local cafe.

PhotobucketNot far down the road from here was a most impressive mountain view, that I’m guessing from my map was Doi Ang.

It must be said that if scenery is your thing, this trip could be made a lot longer, because there is so much along this road that just begs for you to stop and soak it in.

Aware that Boons father would be waiting for us at Mae Ai, we pressed on, arriving there at around 5pm.

All our inquiries suggested that there were no guest houses in Mae Ai so we then made the further 10 km journey ahead to Thaton.

Thaton sits on the Kok river right next to the Thai/Burmese border. Don’t expect much night life as this is a quiet place that shuts down early, although the guest houses will generally serve you as long as you are up.

We found a very pleasant guest house close to the river.

From the Thaton Boat office it is possible to take a boat trip to Chiang Rai, but this was unfortunately out of our budget and time scale for this trip.

Tired from the trip up , after eating at a local cafe, we spent the evening chilling at the Guest House and took an early night.

Day 2

PhotobucketUp early as ever, I took a stroll up onto the bridge to get some shots of the river as the sun rose and was rapidly accosted by many smiling Hill tribe ladies selling their wares.

With a limited budget for this trip I stuck to buying one friendship bracelet off each of the ladies who laughed a lot as I haggled and resisted all their attempts to seduce me into buying the more expensive clothes items.

Boons father had been unable to locate the Monk he was looking for, who had apparently moved on to a Temple in Chiang Rai. So, after breakfast, he left us to catch a bus on. For myself and Boon it was time to take a hike up the hill to check out the Temple. On the way up the grass path you pass some very colourful characters set on a grey/white rock formation.

Passing a delightful pagoda you turn the corner at the top to the main Temple grounds, where you find many more amazing statues, many of which you will have seen from a distance from the street below. The Temple itself is surprisingly modest but the buildings that go with it and their lay out are quite impressive.

The grounds are quite extensive , so have your walking legs on, but I assure you the views are worth it.

Further along the mountain ridge is yet another Temple and we walked back down to get the motorbike and take a ride up the narrow mountain road. On the way we stopped at the site of what appears to be a newly built, Indian style Temple, making another big impression on the local skyline. It also had a quaint shop, come exhibition hut in its grounds.

Stopping here briefly to rest the bike and take in some more views of nearby mountain villages, we then carried on to the Temple at the end of the track.

The Temple here ad a very stately looking building to house its Monks and Novices with a long treetops walkway, on concrete stilts, offering yet more amazing views.

If the ground between the trees was not so barren brown looking I’d question whether this could be Eden.

It was so cool and peaceful up there and we stopped for some time, taking a drink at the cafe in the car park and watching a Thai family offering prayers.

It was about 2pm before we got back on the bike for the long ride home.

PhotobucketWith a few rest stops on the way; including a roadside Buddha; a wooden Temple near Chai Prahkan and an elephant farm not so far from Mae Rim, where we also caught the sunset; we were home for around 8pm.

I feel truly blessed to have the opportunity to go on such journeys as this and can only hope that these notes and photos may inspire you to grab the chance to do the same when you can.

As with all posts on this site, there are many more photos in our photobucket.com album here …

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