Just when you might think we couldn’t better the last day out….this one will take some beating, involving, as it did, a stunning forest waterfall, more off road mountain tracks with stunning views and lots of fun as we had to fight our way through some very thick mud.

Its on days like this that I start thinking I should get a bike like Allys.

This week our chosen meeting place was Mee Mees cafe at Meechok Plaza.

This week I made sure I arrived early and had breakfast whilst waiting for Ally.

hillmanhunterWhile I was there Roger, and old ‘customer’ friend, from my Brick Road Cafe days, appeared, in his Hillman Hunter. He was just preparing to leave Chiang Mai and head back to the UK for a couple of months.

We had a good chat and when Ally arrived at 9.30am we all drank coffee before Ally and I headed off on this weeks ride.

We took  the 1001, 121 and the back way along the river road to the 107 and Mae Rim.

31Just after Mae Rim centre we turned off left on the 3009 riding up the hill as the rain started.

We had to shelter for a while but then carried on up to Pankled Coffee, which sits at the turn off for Mork Fa Waterfall.

Whilst we enjoyed coffee and lunch the heavens opened again. In the end it died down enough for us to carry on, all beit donning raincoats, and we took the small road up to Doi Suthep Pui National Park.

My entrance fee, not having a local ID, was 70 baht.

39It was 350 metres walk through the forest, which, in the rain, was at its lushest.

On the way we spotted a sign that tells you to ‘Please beleive alarm sound’.

We asked at the ticket kiosk later, wondering whether there was an actual alarm and what it was for. Turns out it is a slightly misleading translation with the actual meaning being to take note of the sound of surging water due to the risk of flash floods over the waterfall.

47Ally had previously beleived it to mean to listen out for falling trees.

I would say listen out for both, they are equally a significant risk, especially during this season.

We decided that it was too wet ant slippy to take the nature trail and see the Bat Cave but we did get to the Waterfall…..fantastic.

45 In better weather i”d have taken a dip, same as some braver local girls there at the time.

By the time we got back to the bikes the rain had got heavier and it was time for the leg-ins too.

We then headed on through the National Park, along a track that does not always appear on Allys GPS. She has been this way before so we relied on her memory.

As the rain continued and the track got progressively worse in places we had to decide whether or not to carry on. After on stretch that had been quite lumpy and slippery, Ally declared that if her memory served correctly it didnt get much worse after that.

Well I for one am quite glad that her memory was well off on that one. Had her memory served her correctly then we might have turned back, and as messy as it got, I wouldn’t have missed it for the world.

55It took us through some fantastic scenery, and this is where the ‘Real Lanna Land’ comes in.

Another lesson for me, Ally tells me that Lan means million…and Na is a rice field… Lanna, the land of a million rice fields…and we saw a fair few of them on this ride.

I have heard opinions about the Hilltribes being lazy, what I saw on this ride says that cannot be true.

76bestThe undulating landscape is transformed, in a stunningly beautiful way, by intricate terraced rice paddys.

It really is something to behold. There is much more agriculture going on besides, we passed many dragon fruit plantations, and other ‘nursery’ operations.

DSC_1933It was worth battling our way through the deep mud we found waiting on several corners of the track through the hills.

At the worst, I nearly lost one of my shoes and came pretty close to blowing my engine as the bike sank low into the thick red mud and it took all my strength to push it through.

58Then, here in the middle of nowhere, we come across the electric guys, fixing lines.

This meant that electric cable lay strewn across the track and we had to trust that we wouldnt get electricuted riding over it….oh Joy!

Eventually we made it through and came back out, close to the Buddha on Pink Lotus, onto the road down to Mae Rim.

It had been a long ride, 16.45pm by the time we got to that point.

26The weather had dried out half way through the ride but as we headed home the thick black clouds ahead said more rain for sure.

We parted company at the 121 and I headed home to Lamphun riding through an horrendous storm. But as heavy as the rain was, it still couldnt remove all of that thick red mud.

For many more photos of the rice fields and more , please visit our photobucket album here.

And check out Allys’ here.

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Now, for this trip you will need, either extensive local knowledge, a local guide, or a friend like Ally with an amazing GPS machine that shows you all the lanes and tracks that you wouldn’t know were there.

1We had arranged to meet at the point where we had parted company last week.

It was an absolute scorcher of a day and I chose to wait a little way down the road where i found some shade and watched a local farmer attending his field.

Spotting Ally shooting past I went to catch her up….ok truth is I hadn’t quite been able to remember exactly where we parted company last week, which was just a little further up the San Kampaeng Hot Springs road,(1317) from where I was waiting at the turn off to the Alpine Golf Resort, and Banthi.

7Ally had promised more hills, lakes and a Cave Temple this week, so off we went heading out towards San Kampaeng Hot springs but almost immediately turning off  onto a dirt track that follows the irrigation canal there.

The canal wends its way through the hills , disappearing into the hillside at one point. Working our way around, getting some real smells of the countryside, past pig farms and paddy fields, we rejoined the canal a little further on. We were passed at one point by a local lady villager who looked none too happy and appeared to be voicing her displeasure.

I couldn’t help wondering whether it was concern about seeing ‘tourists’, with many reports putting the blame for recent outbreaks of swine flu in Thailand on to international travelers.

13Whereas the terrain along this canal route was not especially  exciting , sometimes it is enough just to be away from the main drags, surrounded by trees and passing through genuine rural communities, and then out of nowhere coming across…a Temple.

I would have missed it completely, riding along in my semi-meditative state, but Allys keen eyes spotted the tip of the Chedi sticking out through the trees.

It had quite an extensive compound and although it appeared to have been somewhat neglected, there were signs of ongoing refurbishment and it clearly has the potential to become an impressive site, as I am sure it had been in the past.

8With no English translations we had to photograph the Temple name sign for translation later to Wat Doi Zill.

I really have to remember to have breakfast before starting these rides, as once again the hunger pangs hit, with no great prospect of finding any cafes along this route. However, Ally assured me that the lake we were heading for had eating facilities and it wasn’t too much further.

18Reaching our first planned destination was delayed a little when we took a diversion, turning right, across a small bridge over the canal, to another reservoir, that appeared on Allys GPS, as Thi Reservoir; not to be mistaken for the Thi reservoir we visited last week, a few miles away at Banthi.

Another popular fishing spot it was another beauty, nestled in amongst the heavily wooded hills. Spotting a track that was not on the GPS, but looked as if it either went around the lake or possibly might lead back to the canal, we took a chance and followed it.

22The track ended up veering off into the forest, and although we continued into the trees a ways we turned back when it was clear that there were no other visible motorbike tracks.

The greater possibility was of getting horribly lost and delayed. By then we were both too hungry to risk that.

25Heading back to the canal and soon returning to tarmac we headed right,up to Huai Hong Khai 7 , a huge reservoir. Riding into the government buildings there, Ally pointed out the restaurant. Food at last!

Unfortunately the restaurant was occupied by a private party and not open to the public.

Jumping back on the bikes we went onto Huai Hong Khai 2, site of the Royal Project buildings. It didn’t look hopeful for food here either, but , after taking a look at the fish farm there, as we were leaving the site we spotted a covered platform over the edge of the lake, with tables, chairs, A CHEF! and A WAITER!!

Ally asked if they were open..my heart sank as they told us that they were not a restaurant, but simply catering for a visiting coach party that had yet to arrive. About to leave and carry on the search, holding our empty tummys and looking despondent, we were stopped by these delightful people who quickly called out, ” mah, mah”…(‘come, come’).

35The coach party were clearly late and the caterers took pity on us and promptly laid out 4 different dishes plus rice and water. A much nicer lunch than we would likely have bought elsewhere. The chef and waiter were very friendly and chatted with us for a while and refused to let us pay, although we did insist on leaving a tip.

All nicely fuelled up we then headed on and found the nearby Childrens Shelter. This place is in quite extensive grounds and home at the moment to 37 children from 1 yr old to 22 years old.

The staff were very friendly and welcoming and immediately invited us to a party at Joys House, (run by one of the founders of the Shelter). I did accept the invitation but have to apologise for not attending. By the end of this bike trip I was shattered and ended up collapsing in a heap in my armchair and falling asleep.

I do intend to return to the shelter very soon and do a full feature, as I was very impressed with the look of the set up and would love to find out more.

38It was not so far then to the 3005 where we went to the 196 Coffee Corner. Ally is now good friends with the proprietors, Khun Keung and Khun Chai, a lovely Thai couple. Whilst we chatted and drank our coffee they handed us bananas from their own trees, deliciously sweet and great with the coffee.

Continuing on round to Mae On and turning right just past the San Kampaeng Hot Springs, we then rode up to the Mueng Mae On Cave Temple.

A stickler for equality Ally refused to pay the 10 baht parking fee and also demanded the 10baht ‘local’ ticket for the cave , as opposed to the 20 baht ‘farang’ ticket that was first produced.

I appreciate Allys feelings but couldn’t be bothered to argue and paid the parking..i didn’t have the problem with the cave ticket cos Ally had already paid.

44Be warned, the steps here are deceptively steep, especially if you’re an out of shape smoker. Luckily there are not so many. But still, by the time we got to the viewing platform I did wonder how on earth I made it up the steps in Krabi 2 years ago.

A few more steps and we reached the Cave entrance. Taking a few moments to control my claustrophobia, we took the first steps down, into the cave, backwards through the first small opening. Once inside the claustrophobia was not a problem as the caves are vast and airy.

59The bigger problem for me was more steep steps to the lower levels.

No problem going down, but with only one entrance that meant we had to go back up them.

By the end of the visit I had much more incentive for many more Gym visits and to stop smoking.

85We detoured on the route home, through San Kampaeng, navigating our way through the Saturday Street Market and on to a Coffee shop on the way to Bo Sang.

After a very sweet Ice Coffee for me, and ‘not black’ black Coffee for Ally, we said our farewells and look forward to next weeks ride.

For more photos visit our photobucket album here and for better directions visit Allys site here.

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