28-sign-wiang-kum-kam Here’s yet another great day out for you. Quite a special one with lots of historical and cultural interest. We tend to start these days out at around 11am, due to business commitments, but if you were to set off a little earlier you’d give yourself even more time to take it all in.

First on our itinerary on this day was to visit the ancient ruins at Wiang Kum Kam.

Wiang Kum Kam was an ancient settlement  before it became King Mangrai’s capital around the period of 1287-90. King Mengrai moved his capital due to frequent flooding, but Wiang Kum Kam remained important throughout the Lanna period.

261 When the River Ping changed course, during the Burmese period,the area became flooded and was buried under river mud and silt. In the 1980s, after rediscovery during construction of a football pitch, the ancient site was developed into an historical park.

37 There are several Temple sites revealed over quite a large area with a wonderfully rural feel to it.

251 A popular way to get around the whole site is by taking one of the pony and cart tours available.

With our days itinerary our time here was limited but I fully intend to return and spend a whole day there at which point there will be a much more detailed report on this wonderful site. For more photos visit our photobucket album here.

Most of the major routes in & out of town show large blue tourist information signs and there are also smaller individual signs.

Wiang Kum Kam features on many and if you travel out of town on either the Lamphun Road (Rte 106) or the Hang Dong Road (Rte 108) you will see the signs for you to follow.

32-minigolf So, after our brief visit to Wiang Kum Kam, it was a short excursion on the outer ring road (Rte 121) towards San Kampaeng and taking a lunch stop at Inter – Mini Golf, an 18 hole pitch & put obstacle course, on the San Kamphaeng Road opposite the turn off to Bo Sang.

The interesting, and challenging looking mini golf course costs 100 baht per person and has a very pleasant cafe area attached, with a wide ranch of food available at quite reasonable prices.

After lunch, we made a short ride to the fabulous Bo Sang Umberella Factory

Bo-Sang-Umbrella Factory

33-bo-sang Once again, even having been in Chiang Mai for 3 years now, I got that ‘newcomer’ feeling as we entered Bo Sang from the opposite direction to the one I have used previously.

A Little History.

Over a hundred years ago a Monk named Phra In Tha, from Bo Sang Temple, travelled to the Thai/Burmese border to make meditation. Whilst he was there a Burmese man brought him a hand painted paper Umbrella. On visiting the mans village, Phra In Tha, observed the villagers making the umbrellas and carefully wrote down various procedures that go into making of them.

Returning to Bo-Sang he passed on the information he had gathered and taught his own people how to make these most useful works of art.

Since then, the craftspeople of Bo Sang have developed a wide range of styles for the Umbrellas that have become a very famous part of Chiang Mai heritage.

351Lo and behold I finally saw the main Umbrella factory that I have always missed on my previous visits.

371 Much more ‘touristy than the smaller affair mentioned in my previous Bo Sang report, from my family visit, it is nonetheless much more interesting, with a much better insight into what goes into the making of the famous Umbrellas.

42-umbrella-frame Behind the huge shop is the ‘factory’ area, where you can stroll around at  your leisure and watch the five stages of the manufacturing process.

  1. the paper making process, using bamboo or mulberry pulp.
  2. the cutting of bamboo for the umbrella skeleton.
  3. the making of the umbrella skeleton.
  4. the adding of the paper to the skeleton
  5. the hand painting and finishing of the umbrella.

411 If you are wanting to find out more than just what you get from looking it is possible to get a guide to go around with you, who can answer your questions.

mobile-phones A nice touch to the set up is that the artists, of which there are many, will, for a small fee, paint one of their many designs onto to virtually anything you give them. One present craze is mobile phones.

The manageress in the shop, Kun Nok, is very helpful and friendly so don’t be afraid to go and have a chat.
For more photos please visit our photobucket album here.

UPCOMING EVENT-BO SANG UMBRELLA FESTIVAL-16th-17th-18th of January.

With ever more knowledge of this wonderful region of Thailand, and its culture stored away in the old grey matter, the day old would not have been complete with out the obligatory Temple visit. And that is not meant in a derogatory way. My love of the Temples of Chiang Mai and Thailand is great, and trips out really are not complete with out at  least one Temple included.

Many say ‘ once you’ve seen one Temple you’ve seen them all’. I say, open your eyes. Each Temple has something unique to itself, be it the setting, the architectural design, art work, the lay-out, location or the inhabitants, both human and animal, not forgetting the often varied plant life. Ok, some are less exciting than others, but I will never tire of searching  out new ones, and mostly the lesser known ones. Something that increases my love for these places is that some of the most beautiful examples I have visited so far have been tucked away, off the tourist trail and you see that the artwork, the landscaping, the care and the love is not just done for effect.

571 All that said, Wat Doi Saket is one of those that can be considered to be on ‘the tourist trail’, as many of the larger mountain Temples are.

Without wanting to put the place down, for me it felt a little too ‘sterile’. Its hard to pinpoint why, and such perceptions can be very personal, so don’t let my opinion put you off taking a look. There is a lot of beauty there, and with its location, some stunning views.

84Most notable for me was the Chedi ‘within’ a Chedi, something I’ve never seen before.

91 And the artwork inside the main Temple is another mind blower, with some quite surreal and futuristic works included on the huge walls.

My favourite part of this visit was going up to the neighbouring peak, via a mud track opposite the main road entrance to the Temple.

135 At the top is a recently landscaped area with terraced lily ponds and even better views than you get from the Temple that it overlooks.

131 It has a grand statue of the Buddha aboard a multi headed pink elephant.

141 There are tables spotted around the terraced garden and it is a perfect place to sit in meditative thought. For more photos please visit our photobucket album here.

Time constraints needing me back at the cafe by 6pm ended another great day out. Thanks again to Ally for coming up with the route.

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John needs a mapThis old Lanna style Temple lies on Sri Poom, the northern moat road, at the top of the Old City , to the western side, before you reach the Morntean temple.

As yet I have gathered no history but I suspect that there will be something in connection with horses if the Temples name and entrance statues are anything to go by.

John needs a mapAs well as the small Wat there are 2 Viharas.

You can enjoy Thai massage here in one of the side buildings for 120 baht an hour.

The notable feature here is the row of gold coloured statues of the Chinese zodiac animals.John needs a map

That’s me, Rabbit.

To see more photos, visit our photobucket album here.

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Never having considered myself a museum enthusiast, I have to say I was converted by the visit, I made with my family, to The Art and Culture Museum, directly behind The Three Kings Monument.

The colonial type building is vast and each room has a different theme. Some of the rooms contain video screens with some very informative documentary time clips. Others have mock ups of life in Chiang Mai History.

Jamie joins local school children Aerial Photo, Chiang Mai

Every room, upstairs and down, is packed with information on the History of Chiang mai and the Lanna Kingdom, with out being overbearing. The videos are in English and all the information plaques are in both Thai and English.

Jamie soaks in the History Sophie becomes part of History

There certainly is a lot to see and learn and we were very impressed with the lay out.

Sophie, as usual became the centre of attention with local school children visiting the museum at the same time.

Sophie steals the show again either Chiang Mai ladies used to drink alot, or I suspect a visitor got too close to the exhibits!

Definitely worth a visit if you want to learn more about Chiang Mai, the Lanna kingdom and origins of the Hilltribes.

It cost 90 baht adult…..40 baht children.

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Wat Pan Thao was built around the beginning of the Buddhist year 1934, which makes it around 617 years old.
It stands in a compound of just over 2 Rai.
In 1954 (Buddhist year), Wat Phan Tao was a place where many bronze molds of Buddha were made. The resulting images were housed in the Viharn (chapel), at Wat Chedi Luang.
Wat Phan Tao was renovated during the reign of King Kawila, the first King of Chiang Mai.
in 2349 King Kawila appointed Phra Maha Kumpeera from Wat Phan Tao, to be advisor to the Supreme Patriach.
In 2361 King Puttavong , the fourth King of Chiang Mai, gave merit in celebration of four Temples, Wat Ou Mong, Wat Doung Dee, Wat Sam Phao, and Wat Phan Tao.
Between 2420 and 2436, the Abbot of Wat Phan Tao, Khru Ba Kawila formed the Buddhist Temple hall of Chiang Mai Sect Clergy.
There are 13 temples in this sect;
Wat Phan Tao : Wat Sob Kaomin : Wat Chedi Luang : Wat Hor Tham : Wat Sed Thar : Wat Charng Tam : Wat Mern Tum : Wat Jed Lin : Wat Forn Sroy : Wat Phan Vand : Wat Pouk Tam : Wat Karrakok and Wat Kit Ti.
In 2433 when the acting head of the Chiang Mai clergy, Khru Ba Punya, passed away, the sect decided that Khru Ba Kawila should be the next head but he to passed away , in 2436, before he had taken up the position.
In 2415,during the reign of Phra Chao Inthawichayanon, the 7th King of Chiang Mai, Chao Mae Buatip and her family commissioned the building of a Buddha image at Wat Tai Dub Pao. The wooden image was given to Wat Phan Tao to dedicate to all her family.
Also during this reign the teak Vihan was built using wood reclaimed after the dismantling of Hor Kum, the royal residence of Phra Chao Mahotra, 5th King of Chiang Mai.
The Vihan is said to be the only teak Vihan within the lanna Kingdom to have remained in perfect condition.

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Phra Datu Chedi Luang dates back over 600 years and is the tallest Pagoda in the whole of Thailand.
During the reign of Tilokaraja, 9th Monarch of the Mangrai dynasty,(1441-1487), the Chedi was reconstructed and enlarged to 80 metres high and 56 meters on each side of the base.
Chedi Luang is a mix of La Na , Sri Lankan and Pagan architecture.
The most important alteration was of a niche on the Eastern aspect of the Chedi, where The Emerald Buddha was enshrined for 79 of its 80 years in Chiang Mai.
Further reconstruction during the reign of Phra Muangkeo, 11th Monarch of the Mangrai Dynasty, (1495-1525), strengthened and enlarged the base and walled enclosures were added.
In 1545, during the reign of Queen Chiraprabha, the 15th Monarch of the Mangrai Dynasty, Chiang Mai suffered a heavy rainstorm and earthquake causing half of the Chedi to crumble. Restoration impossible, it was left like this for 400 years.

Western aspect

Western aspect

Eastern Aspect

Eastern Aspect

In 1990, the Thai Government gave a budget of 35,000,000 baht for restoration of the ruins of Chedi Luang. The work was completed in December 1992 and the Chedi now sits at 60 metres wide at the base. The collapsed upper section not restored, the exact height is not known.

Old Photos of The Chedi

Old Photos of The Chedi

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