Its been a mad couple of months where i have been away from the computer alot and then not in much of a mood to work on it anyway. But with all the stress of the sale over I’m now back on form and will start by updating on a few of the things that have gone on.

Firstly my mad dash to Vientiane when I realised that yet again I had mis- read the dates on my passport and had just 5 days in which to get an extension to my non-immigrant b visa. That was on a Friday and in the end we left Chiang Mai on the Monday night, after collecting the relevant paperwork from my lawyer in the morning.

The first laborious 12 hour bus journey got us to Udonthani at 8am on the Tuesday morning, at a cost of 600 baht each, (maybe 620 i can’t recall exactly).

Then another 30 baht each got us from Udon to Nong Khai by around 9am.

udontuktuk Making the age old mistake of not sorting the price first we then got a tuk tuk to the border crossing, stopping first at an agents where we booked one night in a hotel in Vientiane. We knew we’d be paying a little over the odds but i wanted to relax as much as possible.

The tuk tuk driver took us for 200baht, way overcharge!

boonlaocar Getting through the border was simple enough, and because we had booked the room the hotel had sent a minibus to pick us up and we were at the hotel by 11am. Having already decided to treat the trip as a mini holiday we were in no rush and spent the rest of the daylight hours in our room, showering and sleeping.

boonsteakv In the evening we found a very nice restaurant 5 minutes walk up the road. Well, the restaurant was nice, and the food excellent, shame that the service was very much on the slow side and barely a smile to be seen.

We then did a little bit of shopping at a couple of clothes shops before returning to the hotel to watch movies in our room.

By all accounts there is no Cinema in Vientiane!

In the morning we headed over to the Thai Consulate where I put in my application for my visa extension. That took around an hours queuing.

bicyclesv We had hired bicycles from the hotel and after putting in the application we went first to a nearby massage shop, for Thai massage, and then for food at a local cafe.

One of the noticeable things about Vientiane, especially in comparison to Chiang Mai, is the distinct lack of cafes or restaurants. Mobile phones appear to much more important than food there, as every other shop appeared to cater to your every communication need.

mem6 After some time at the famous concrete Gate and a bit more clothes shopping we returned for more scowls at the French Restaurant up the road, before taking another early night. We just didn’t find any inspiration for a decent night out there.

On Wednesday morning Boon has to catch the bus to Nong Khai. Unbelievably Thais get only 3 day passes. We had bought 2 but he still had to leave the country and re-enter to activate the new pass. boonbus2v

My visa pick up was between 1 and 3pm. Waiting for Boon to return I spent time at the Memorial Gate, watching life go by in this sleepiest of capital cities.

Collecting the 3 month Visa extension(cost-2000) , took around an hour again. After which we went for a swim at a complex we had spotted the day before.

swimpool For 150 baht each we had access to the 3 pools available.

For a little extra we could have taken advantage of the multiple water slides.

For the complex owners it was a shame to see such an impressive place so empty. For us, wanting a quiet relaxing dip, it was perfect.

At the entrance to the complex is a cafe/bakery which sells very good coffee, shakes and excellent bakery products. It was our best find in Vientiane.

templemuseum2v We ended up spending one more day, visiting Wat Phratat Luang, a large Temple complex.

Outside the Temple complex is a gigantic tarmacked recreation area where we watched many youngsters playing football, riding bicycles and stunt riding on motorcys.

We then spent more time at the swimming pool.

I have to say that although we had a nice enough time, I would not rush to go again. Whilst we were there the visible pollution in the air seemed worse even than Chiang Mai at its peak periods.

Groups of heavily armed soldiers on several street corners, albeit looking fairly relaxed, and the unshakable feeling that you are being watched made it not so comfortable for me.

So Friday saw us leave Lao and travel to Udon where we decided to stay for one night.

karin-hoteludonHaving booked into The Karin Hotel (400baht double aircon), we took a stroll around town.

Now Udon, a place I’d always imagined as being quiet, turns out to be quite a thriving place.

Visiting the large shopping Mall we witnessed a bustling city centre around the Mall. Very close to the Mall were lively looking Night Clubs and a live music bar restaurant right opposite.

tshirtsudonMuch higher on my list of return journeys than Vientiane.

After spending the day wandering the town, buying t-shirts and catching an afternoon movie at the shopping mall we caught the night bus on Saturday evening and arrived back in Chiang Mai bright and early on the Sunday morning.

for more photos from this trip please visit our photobucket album here.

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CHIANG MAI > CHIANG RAI > DOI TUNG > MAESAI > GOLDEN TRIANGLE >
CHIANG KHONG > CHIANG RAI > CHIANG MAI
5 DAYS ON MOTORCY

So, maybe you are just a little bit crazy, like me, and fancy a tour with the freedom to choose where you go along the way.
Finding a motorcy for rent in Chiang Mai is easy, there are many outlets offering bikes rent, price dependent on what cc you select.
If you do fancy a trip like this one, select a bike of at least 110cc and if you happen to be traveling with a passenger then 125 or higher. These motorcys are great for buzzing around on but the common 100ccs struggle with getting up the mountains.

DAY ONE>>TO CHIANG RAI

Our first leg was Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai. We figured just getting to Chiang Rai was good enough for the first day. Its a 3-4 hour journey on the bus, so we knew that it would be maybe double that on the bike. Seeing that they aren’t really built for long distance touring, its advisable to rest the bike as often as possible.
Our first rest stop was at a beautiful spot in the first mountain range, just short of Pong Nam Hot Springs.

national-park-watermarked

Its great fun flying along the superhighway and up and down the winding mountain passes.

mountain-view-watermarkedThe road, on the whole, is very good and for the most part was quite empty.

Still it doesn’t pay to get complacent as coaches and freight trucks often appear from nowhere, traveling at ridiculous speeds and having scant respect for smaller vehicles.

As we reached Fang, the heavens opened and there was monsoon like rain for the next 2 hours, all the way to Chiang Rai. It may have been sensible to have stopped and found somewhere to stop for the night and carry on the next day. But hell, this is the sort of thing that makes me feel alive.
Stopping to buy refuse bags, that we cut and used as some protection against the rain, we pressed on slowly through the downpour, arriving in Chiang Rai at around 6.15pm, looking and feeling like a couple of drowned rats.
We then had a 20 minute ride around town trying to find somewhere to stay, before asking at the market and being directed to a guest house.

guest-house-chiang-rai-watermarkedThe guest house had a very nice friendly feel to it, had a range of accommodation, from dorm beds to air con rooms. We settled on a double room with fan.
Chiang Rai town is a lot smaller than Chiang Mai and much less developed, and in the rain, appears to shut down at 10pm.
So we spent that night relaxing at the guest house which has a varied menu of Thai and western dishes at very good prices.

Day 2

meeting-martinwatermarkedHaving breakfast, I was joined by another guest, Martin, a German guy who had been living in America for 6 years. We discovered that we were heading in roughly the same direction and struck up a plan to travel together.Martin was a funny guy, after we convinced him to hire a motorcy, ( having never ridden one before), he then took an awfully long time tying his bags on, being somewhat overcautious. But each to his own:).

Before heading off towards Maesai; our next target for overnight stay with Boons family; we called in at the Temple next door. In future travels I will be more meticulous in recording names of places, but I hadn’t got it in my head to do this site then.

temple-chiang-rai-watermarked temple-chiang-rai-2-watermarked

Pretty nervous about the motorcy to begin with,Martin soon got the hang of it. Trouble was that he neglected to top up the fuel first. As we set off from Chiang Rai and stopped for fuel, we had another 20 minutes wait whilst Martin untied his bags so that he could lift the seat to fill up, and then re-tie everything.Maesai is not so far from Chiang Rai, about 2 hours by motor cy, and Martin agreed to our detour to find Wat Doi Tung. (to continue this tour follow this link)

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royal-palace-entrance

Taking the signposted left turn it was onwards and upwards, on the magnificently scenic mountain road. This road whilst being in good condition, gets very steep and winding in places and at times was quite scary, especially when the rain came again.

As we reached Doi Tung Royal Palace Gardens, we stopped to shelter from the rain and had coffee. Here we discovered that our planned onward journey along the back mountain road round to Maesai was considered too dangerous due to military disputes between the Hilltribes and the Burmese.

I’m told that the gardens are well worth a visit too, but will have to confirm that in the future as we were focused on Wat Doi Tung.
1st-temple-doi-tung-watermarked 1st-temple-doi-tung-2-watermarked When the rain receded we carried on, very carefully, to our destination.

There are actually two Temples close to each other, Wat Doi Tung being at the very top of the mountain road.

The first was, for me, slightly more impressive architecturally.

But Wat Doi Tung, hidden away amongst the lush green mountain forest, doused in a thick mist definitely held the greater spiritual feel to it.

wat-doi-tungnow wat-doi-tung-2-watermarked Beautiful , but not so big, after about 40 minutes there we decided to head back down and on to Maesai.
The last bits of the road to the Temple had been particularly steep and winding and, with the wet roads, the ride back down was quite frightening in places, but we did ok.

Further down the skies brightened and the roads dried out and….I got a flat back tyre.

doi-tung-repair-watermarkedBoon went ahead with Martin to find some help. I carried on down, walking the bike, until they returned just 10 minutes later with a foot pump, borrowed from a repair shop nearby. After putting enough air in so that I could ride it slowly, we took the bike down to the workshop, where a very friendly guy replaced the inner tube in 10 minutes.Whilst waiting, some of the mechanics friends offered us local Thai ‘whiskey’. Not wanting to appear impolite, I accepted a small glass of the clear liquid, that tasted more like schnapps. Just as well that I just had the 1….it was extremely potent.

So off we went again, back to the main road for Maesai.

It was getting dark as we motored onwards, taking a right turn, about 20 minutes down the road, before Maesai. This road would take us to one of Somboons uncles houses. We hadnt gone far down this narrow country lane before…

.ahhhhh…flat front tyre.

This time Boon phoned his uncle, who sent Boons brothers out with a pick-up truck and we then completed our journey to Boons uncles, in the quiet village of San Thanon Gai.

boons-uncles-watermarkedWhen we arrived there were many people there sitting outside the house, under a rough lean-to, drinking Thai whiskey. It was an interesting night, we received a warm welcome and the various people did their best to chat with us through Somboon.The striplight we were sitting under attracted hundreds of winged insects.

After I was unable to hide my discomfort as the insects constantly buzzed around my head, Boons uncle fetched a large bowl of water. Holding it up to the swarm he caught many but they were soon replaced by more.

In the end the whiskey made me care less.

Looking down at the bowl full of drowned insects I nudged Martin and joked, ‘tomorrows breakfast’.

Martin chose to sleep outside in his hammock, whilst Boon and I slept in the living room an cushions laid out by his family, under a large mosquito net.

DAY 3

boons-bro-watermarkedWaking early with a headache I joined boons aunt and younger brother as the boy prepared for school.
Even in these poor villages the families do all they can to ensure that their children dress smart for school.
Boons grandfather was next up and asked me to wake Boon. We then sat chatting with his grandfather for some time, before taking the bike to a nearby repair shop run by two Thai women.
By the time we got back Martin was up, and breakfast was ready.
fried-flies-watermarkedSure enough the insects from the night before had been de-winged and fried up.

Tucking in, I actually found them to be quite a tasty snack. I did draw a line at grilled toads, caught from the damp forecourt earlier. But here in the rural North, money is scarce and they eat what is available.

houses-san-thanon1-watermarkedAfter breakfast we called in at the next ‘uncle’ who lived in one of the traditional wooden stilted houses, where another uncle was busy woodworking. This family was obviously better off and we were even able to get a heated shower and a more substantial breakfast. We stayed for nearly an hour, during which time I was offered a similar house down the lane.

houses-san-thanon-2-watermarked Off for our next tour destination, Chiang Khong. Our route took us through The Golden Triangle and we made this a lunch stop.
Laos, Burma and Thailand all meet at this point, on either sides of the Mekong river and the views are fantastic. The riverside town is very touristy, and has an almost British seaside resort feel to it. Still, turn away from the stalls and look over the river, as we did, eating lunch at a riverside food stall cooperative.

mekong-watermarked


to continue this tour please follow this link.

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