Another great ride out with my good friend Ally.
Making sure I was properly prepared for the cooler weather we have now, I eagerly awaited Allys arrival at my home in Mae salab, keen to get a much needed break from the day to day running of The Stratton ABC Foundation.

Just after 9am she duly arrived and we set off on our journey, riding up to Banthi and left towards San Kam Peang.

Turning right at the main road from Chiang Mai to San Kam Paeng Hot Springs we headed up into the mountains around Doi Saket.

Our original destination was actually was Chae Hom Dam, via the winding mountain roads that, whilst looking like short cuts on the map, are a much longer ride than the highways due to the extreme inclines, hairpins, and potholes along the way. But all this taken in to account , treat the route with due respect and you will enjoy some spectacular views, peace, fantastic mountain air, and friendly greetings along the way.

Not far into our journey we started to see trays of coffee beans laid out at the roadsides, drying in the sun.

26A little further we rode through a delightful village and came across further stages in the coffee production process…..follow this link for more.

After enjoying the delicious coffee as well as tasting some of the freshly roasted beans,we pressed on.

6There is something about the lush green mountain forests and those twisting roads with their overhang tree ‘tunnels’, brightly coloured flowers and sounds of the wide variety of bird and animal life that means that I can never get enough of it.

Around midday we joined the road that Boon and myself had ridden before , on our way back from Phayao. That ride had been in the early evening and we were not at all prepared, for what was a freezing cold trip in the dark,
in extremely treacherous conditions.

Ever since that crazy ride I had been itching to take that trip in the day time.

60The road appeared to be in mildly better condition than the previous time but there were still stretches of potholes that would appear suddenly; stretches where the forest was doing its place to reclaim the road, making it very narrow at times; and most concerning, places where the mountain was reclaiming the road.

This means that even in the daytime you retain an almost constant sense of nervous anticipation; a branch cracks and falls somewhere along the roadside and you quickly look for signs of slipping mountainside; then you look through the gaps in the forestation and gasp as the stunning beauty of it takes your breath away and whatever trepidation you may have about the state of the road fades to insignificance.

We soon realised that our extended stop at the ‘coffee village’ had delayed us enough to mean that reaching Chae Hom Dam and getting back in daylight just wasn’t going to happen.

So instead of carrying on to Chae Son and  Muang Pan we took a right through the National Park. At the check point Ally explained that we were simply passing through on route to Chiang Mai and not actually visiting the waterfall there, and so we avoided having to pay.

66We did stop for lunch at the National Park restaurant which sits beside a delightful mountain stream and we spotted many varieties of rarely seen birds as we ate.

From there it was more winding roads, more great views and many picturesque fords on the way to Huai Kaeo and the main road back to Chiang Mai.

92Before reaching Huai Kaeo we stopped to see Mae Kapong waterfall, which is just a few metres from the roadside and then stopped at a wonderful new coffee shop in the village that has a great balcony overlooking the main village in the valley below.

For more photos please visit our photobucket album here.

For a more precise instruction on the directions we took and more photos please visit Ally site here.

Well worth the trip yet again:) I got back to Mae Salab a little after 6pm as the sun went down.

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Now, for this trip you will need, either extensive local knowledge, a local guide, or a friend like Ally with an amazing GPS machine that shows you all the lanes and tracks that you wouldn’t know were there.

1We had arranged to meet at the point where we had parted company last week.

It was an absolute scorcher of a day and I chose to wait a little way down the road where i found some shade and watched a local farmer attending his field.

Spotting Ally shooting past I went to catch her up….ok truth is I hadn’t quite been able to remember exactly where we parted company last week, which was just a little further up the San Kampaeng Hot Springs road,(1317) from where I was waiting at the turn off to the Alpine Golf Resort, and Banthi.

7Ally had promised more hills, lakes and a Cave Temple this week, so off we went heading out towards San Kampaeng Hot springs but almost immediately turning off  onto a dirt track that follows the irrigation canal there.

The canal wends its way through the hills , disappearing into the hillside at one point. Working our way around, getting some real smells of the countryside, past pig farms and paddy fields, we rejoined the canal a little further on. We were passed at one point by a local lady villager who looked none too happy and appeared to be voicing her displeasure.

I couldn’t help wondering whether it was concern about seeing ‘tourists’, with many reports putting the blame for recent outbreaks of swine flu in Thailand on to international travelers.

13Whereas the terrain along this canal route was not especially  exciting , sometimes it is enough just to be away from the main drags, surrounded by trees and passing through genuine rural communities, and then out of nowhere coming across…a Temple.

I would have missed it completely, riding along in my semi-meditative state, but Allys keen eyes spotted the tip of the Chedi sticking out through the trees.

It had quite an extensive compound and although it appeared to have been somewhat neglected, there were signs of ongoing refurbishment and it clearly has the potential to become an impressive site, as I am sure it had been in the past.

8With no English translations we had to photograph the Temple name sign for translation later to Wat Doi Zill.

I really have to remember to have breakfast before starting these rides, as once again the hunger pangs hit, with no great prospect of finding any cafes along this route. However, Ally assured me that the lake we were heading for had eating facilities and it wasn’t too much further.

18Reaching our first planned destination was delayed a little when we took a diversion, turning right, across a small bridge over the canal, to another reservoir, that appeared on Allys GPS, as Thi Reservoir; not to be mistaken for the Thi reservoir we visited last week, a few miles away at Banthi.

Another popular fishing spot it was another beauty, nestled in amongst the heavily wooded hills. Spotting a track that was not on the GPS, but looked as if it either went around the lake or possibly might lead back to the canal, we took a chance and followed it.

22The track ended up veering off into the forest, and although we continued into the trees a ways we turned back when it was clear that there were no other visible motorbike tracks.

The greater possibility was of getting horribly lost and delayed. By then we were both too hungry to risk that.

25Heading back to the canal and soon returning to tarmac we headed right,up to Huai Hong Khai 7 , a huge reservoir. Riding into the government buildings there, Ally pointed out the restaurant. Food at last!

Unfortunately the restaurant was occupied by a private party and not open to the public.

Jumping back on the bikes we went onto Huai Hong Khai 2, site of the Royal Project buildings. It didn’t look hopeful for food here either, but , after taking a look at the fish farm there, as we were leaving the site we spotted a covered platform over the edge of the lake, with tables, chairs, A CHEF! and A WAITER!!

Ally asked if they were open..my heart sank as they told us that they were not a restaurant, but simply catering for a visiting coach party that had yet to arrive. About to leave and carry on the search, holding our empty tummys and looking despondent, we were stopped by these delightful people who quickly called out, ” mah, mah”…(‘come, come’).

35The coach party were clearly late and the caterers took pity on us and promptly laid out 4 different dishes plus rice and water. A much nicer lunch than we would likely have bought elsewhere. The chef and waiter were very friendly and chatted with us for a while and refused to let us pay, although we did insist on leaving a tip.

All nicely fuelled up we then headed on and found the nearby Childrens Shelter. This place is in quite extensive grounds and home at the moment to 37 children from 1 yr old to 22 years old.

The staff were very friendly and welcoming and immediately invited us to a party at Joys House, (run by one of the founders of the Shelter). I did accept the invitation but have to apologise for not attending. By the end of this bike trip I was shattered and ended up collapsing in a heap in my armchair and falling asleep.

I do intend to return to the shelter very soon and do a full feature, as I was very impressed with the look of the set up and would love to find out more.

38It was not so far then to the 3005 where we went to the 196 Coffee Corner. Ally is now good friends with the proprietors, Khun Keung and Khun Chai, a lovely Thai couple. Whilst we chatted and drank our coffee they handed us bananas from their own trees, deliciously sweet and great with the coffee.

Continuing on round to Mae On and turning right just past the San Kampaeng Hot Springs, we then rode up to the Mueng Mae On Cave Temple.

A stickler for equality Ally refused to pay the 10 baht parking fee and also demanded the 10baht ‘local’ ticket for the cave , as opposed to the 20 baht ‘farang’ ticket that was first produced.

I appreciate Allys feelings but couldn’t be bothered to argue and paid the parking..i didn’t have the problem with the cave ticket cos Ally had already paid.

44Be warned, the steps here are deceptively steep, especially if you’re an out of shape smoker. Luckily there are not so many. But still, by the time we got to the viewing platform I did wonder how on earth I made it up the steps in Krabi 2 years ago.

A few more steps and we reached the Cave entrance. Taking a few moments to control my claustrophobia, we took the first steps down, into the cave, backwards through the first small opening. Once inside the claustrophobia was not a problem as the caves are vast and airy.

59The bigger problem for me was more steep steps to the lower levels.

No problem going down, but with only one entrance that meant we had to go back up them.

By the end of the visit I had much more incentive for many more Gym visits and to stop smoking.

85We detoured on the route home, through San Kampaeng, navigating our way through the Saturday Street Market and on to a Coffee shop on the way to Bo Sang.

After a very sweet Ice Coffee for me, and ‘not black’ black Coffee for Ally, we said our farewells and look forward to next weeks ride.

For more photos visit our photobucket album here and for better directions visit Allys site here.

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29

Yes, this time it was just me and Ally, Somboons not so keen on hot day rides, shame ‘cos it was a nice easy ride, no hills and plenty of shade.

Our choice for the day was to take an easy ride up and down the River Ping.

12Our start point was Wat Pang Yuu, which you will find by taking the Hang Dong turn off Highway 11, the one that actually carries on to Samoeng. The Temple is on the left with the entry road being just before the river bridge.

We met up at around 10.30 and started the journey with a stroll around Wat Pang Yuu. I have been seeing this Temple and its impressive array of statues for quite sometime no as I passed by on the highway between the main Hang Dong road and Highway 11 and have long been promising myself a visit.

wat-pang-yuuAlly informed me that, although it was not the first time she had visited , she was very impressed with what is clearly a relatively recent facelift. On her previous visit it had apparently been a very run down and neglected place.

It is the many large Buddha images that catch your eye from the highway but there are more nice surprises when you get inside the Temple compound.

There are an incredible number of Buddha statues, both large and small. Then, to the rear of the compound you come across a beautiful Vihara surrounded by an extensive pond.

18Also, don’t miss the ancient looking Buddha scene, under the trees to the left of the pond. Though not lavishly painted like the newer statues you see from the road, for me this image has the real Buddha spirit about it somehow.

Many photographs later we left the Temple, from the front entrance gate that overlooks the river, and headed left toward Lamphun.

This day was a nice contrast to some of our rides that involve many kilometres and several destinations. On this day the only real plan was a relaxed ride up and down the river.

44And very nice it was to. The River Ping, away from the city centre, certainly on this stretch towards Lamphun, has a wonderfully relaxing effect and a look that belies its size and strength. With the many ancient overhanging trees, floating water plants and its many twists and turns it feels more like a beautiful winding stream.

As always my craving for coffee was early to raise its head and we were on the look out for a place to stop. Around 10-15 minutes ride from the Temple we found what should end up being a great riverside rest point. At the moment it is clearly still under construction, but was nevertheless open.

32Didn’t actually get the name of the place but it appears to be a Thai concern, that, the lady who served us our coffee informed us, specializes in fish dishes along with other common Thai options. It is right on the river bank, looking towards the large weir we would visit shortly after. A lovely quiet place for coffee and a very likely meal out place in the future, being not so far from home.

So,35 after coffee it was just a couple of minutes ride before we reached the impressive looking weir, which looks to be a fairly new addition, or has at least been recently refurbished and acts also as a river crossing for pedestrians and motorcys. It is at this point that the canal system for Lamphun starts. The surrounding area is quiet lovely, with a nice size gazebo on the banks of the canal, which was occupied by a friendly bunch of local youngsters at the time.

Although we didn’t visit anymore on this trip, there are several riverside Temples along the way, so expect some reports on those in the coming weeks.

Indeed, what we found on this route, was not so many ‘attractions’, other than the river itself, which was fine by me. There was plenty of interest. Just before we crossed the river and headed back to Chiang Mai down the other side, about 15 minutes ride after the weir, we saw some new,(to me), birdlife.

52All along the way, apart from the river there are several amazing buildings, from lavish homes to ‘wild shacks’ as Ally calls them.

For more ‘wild shacks’ please visit Allys site, where you will also get much better route information thanks to Allys excellent GPS machine.

46On the way back to Chiang Mai we spotted a few fishermen in the water hauling nets; stopped for lunch at a local Thai outlet, very tasty food and only 20 baht!;

called in at Ban Nam Ping, which is a riverside Hotel which has rooms from 1500 baht a night or 30 nights for 30,000,(out of my budget, but for those of you in that range for your holiday it looked like a very nice location, with a buffet restaurant from 150 baht, a small swimming pool and kayaks, free to hotel guests or 100 baht an hour to walk in customers);

54and shortly before parting at 1.30 , took a short detour to a very nice coffee shop just off the super highway.

After leaving Ally I carried on down the river road which eventually brings you onto ChangKlan road and into town where I met Boon at The Brick Road Cafe.

Just a short trip this time , around 4 hours in all from Wat Pang Yuu, at a very easy pace.

For more photos please visit our photobucket album here

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Sunday
In contrast to recent days this was a little less busy.
After much deliberation i finally decided that it was time to get rid of the JRD. I simply don’t use it enough and the little problems with it were gradually getting bigger and more regular.
carwashSo leaving here at around 10 am we first stopped at the Car Wash outlet underneath Tesco Lotus at Kamtieng.
They gave us a price of 150 baht for clean and polish, which Boon thought was outrageous but I agreed to. While we waited we popped into the Food Court upstairs for breakfast.
dscf1654About half an hour later we left on a shiny JRD, barely recognisable from the filthy wreck we rode in on.

Then it was off to the second hand motorcy market, where, after more deliberation we part ex’d the JRD with a Honda Wave 125, in a very gorgeous orange.(see and end of write up)
Have to say it goes great. The seats a bit slippy but I’m sure that will soon change after its had fat behind sat on for a while.
boonbrcWe then popped over to The Brick Road Cafe where I sat and had drinks while Boon went off to Central Plaza for a haircut. And very smart he looked when he returned.

After hanging out there for quite long enough we decided on a trip back home via that gorgeous village of Chompoo.

chompoofountainAfter feeding the fish for a while we spotted a stall selling plain plaster figurines, along with small amounts of various colour paints. Behind the stall was a shelter where there were a few brushes and a pallet available for customers who wished to sit and paint there figures whilst enjoying the ambience of the day.

Thinking this a great idea, we decided to join in, the smaller figures were just 15 baht and larger ones 30, (the larger ones were hollow moneyboxes).

Got home just in time before the rain came down:)

waveoh and heres the orange Wave!

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John needs a map There are some wonderful sights to be seen out and about the Chiang Mai area. I spotted this big fellow whilst out on my motorbike for the day and couldnt resist getting this shot. Carved from a single block of wood this excellent piece of work stood a good 5 foot tall and at least 3 ft wide and would set you back 40, 000 baht if you fancied ordering one,(including delivery within 20 kms of Chiang Mai City). Chatting to the craftsmen I discovered that he produces pieces of many different sizes, with a range of prices. Check back in a couple of weeks when I hope to have posted a special feature on his work, from untouched block to the finished job.

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