Here is a taster of what you could find in Thailand if you have a care to. I will not be using specific place names or any real names of the people featured and photos will not include recognisable faces. This is for the protection of the children featured.

After a busy year running a childrens home in Chiang Mai I was in much need of a good rest. During the Songkran period I had determined to give the children 3 weeks with their families and for myself to find somewhere to relax and think of nothing.

I had thought of trying to find a Temple somewhere and asking to stay but as it happened I was invited to stay in one of the Mountain villages that one our children comes from.

This is the first part of the story of a perfect retreat for me.

Having taken the truck for testing and new Tax Disc the day before we left Chiang Mai at around 5pm , (myself, assistant Somboon and 6 children), setting off on the long drive to Nan Province.

After doing this drive in the day time last year I decided the cool of night time would be much easier.

Making several rest stops on the way we reached Nan bus station at just past 4.30.

Last years journey took 7 hours so you can see we took our time this year.

Leaving the bus station at just after 6 am we then had to travel to a couple of different villages to drop the children off with their familes.

First it was our two eldest girls at their hilltribe village.

It was good to see that the long dirt track to their village is now a tarmacked road.

Last years drive led to a broken suspension soon after.

As you can see from the photos most of the houses are basic bamboo houses with the floors being the earth that the house is built on.

As in many such villages many of these small houses accommodate extended families in very cramped conditions.

Another half an hours drive took us to where we dropped off Nu, Som and Tai.

With just the eldest boy left we first headed back to Nan City in order to sort out Boons bus ticket back to Chiang Mai where he would be taking care of the home and our 5 dogs.

We had a much needed breakfast stop on the way and then after sorting the ticket it was another hour and fifty minutes drive to our final destination, a very isolated Mountain Moobahn.

Nestled amongst the tips of a group of mountains, well off the tourist trail, it was the perfect place for my holiday.

Share
 

JAB?…John, Ally and Boon:). Yes after a long break from our road tours; mostly because of me being tied up with the sale of The Brick Road Cafe;  at long last me and Ally went out for one of our motorbike tours, and this time Boon came to.

bikesAs we needed to return to the motorbike market to complete the paperwork for the orange Wave we had agreed to meet Ally there at around 9am.

After sorting the paperwork and having a quick look at the bikes , we took coffee at Mee Mees’ before heading off on quite a lengthy tour.

First we cut across to the Doi Saket road and headed past Doi Saket into the mountains.

blackspringTaking the right hand turn towardds Ban Huaw Kaow, Ally first took us to what she called , ‘the alternative hot springs’. There is a Hot springs further up the main road, at Pong Nam Rorn, with a market and several food and drink outlets , which is used as a tour rest  stop.

This one appears to be an abandoned attempt to develop one deeper in the mountains.

chameleonThe water is, without a doubt, extremely hot , but is also disgustingly black in most of the pools and stinks to high heaven.

Interesting but not one to rush back to.For me the highlight of this visit was the small but proud looking chameleon we spotted.

A little further down the road we were ready for more coffee, we had been riding for an hour!

Ally, having done this road before, took us to The 196 Coffee Corner, a lovely little place that does extremely good fresh coffee at a fraction of the price you’d pay in town.

196coffeecorner We were met enthusiastically by the owners golden labrador who refused to stop barking until we’d all said hello.

If you get the chance, take a walk up the driveway and take a peek into their private garden which contains the owners collection of wood ‘scuplture’. Another gem of a place in the hills.

lunch5All caffeined up, on we went, wending our way through the hills working our way over to our main destination of Doi Khun Tan National Park. It was a long and beautiful ride. On the way we made a slight detour to our surprise lunch destination,(thanks again Ally), Tharntong Kitchen, at Tharntong Lodges. This wonderful place, nestled up in the mountain forests, with a mountain stream running through it, has been beautifully landscaped and has many wood cabins spotted around in which you can stay if you wish. With the cheapest room being 1,200 baht a night , its out of my usual budget; but for the stunning surroundings and excellent facilities, including top notch food, I’d say its worth it.

lunch15Treating myself to wild pig in red curry sauce, (120 baht..excellent quality and good portion),

I managed to swallow a whole bay leaf that got lodged in my throat, very nearly requiring the Heimlich maneuver, thankfully a good slap on the back from Boon dislodged it.

If you find this place I hopcockatoo6e you’ll get to say hello to the resident cockatoo who is extremely friendly and poses well for the camera. He was most gentle when taking the fruit that Ally offered.

So, happily fed, it came time to get back down to the road to Khun Tan.

We had turned off to the left for lunch, so it was back town and left back towards our destination, stopping briefly at the Cosmo Petrol station to refuel the bikes.

roughroadAnother long, but very enjoyable ride, through more stunning scenery.

There was a long stretch where the tarmac road disintegrated into mud and gravel base, but the slow bumpy ride was worth it as it took us to one of the best view points, overlooking the Mae On Valley.

Ally warned me to take a deep breath as we walked the few steps off the road to the view point, and well I needed to. It was quite a sight indeed and we were lucky with the weather, so stormy in recent days, sunny and clear giving a crisp few for miles around.

maaeonvalleyview

After spending some time socking in the splendor of the valley below, we carried on down the road that would take , first through the valley and then on to Khun Tan. A few kilometres on we were back on to tarmac and very soon took a stop at Wat Maer Takai.

wat7This relatively modest compound holds some beautiful Temple buildings.

But the most interesting feature is the huge and varied amount of images;

Buddha to Ganesh to King Rama and more.

That said, the front of the main temple building is also stunning in its artwork.

From here we then rode on, following our leader Ally , who took us into the National Park area and up to Khun Tan Railway station.

khuntan5What a beautiful spot, its like something out of The Railway Children, with palm trees. Lovingly landscaped and manicured, you feel you are waiting in somebodies garden rather than a station. We came across a group of farang who had been staying in lodges and had a little gripe about how long they had been waiting for the train to come. I could only remark about what a wonderful place to have to wait.

khuntantrainWe stayed for coffee and saw their train arrive, exiting the tunnel from the mountain, that looks too small from the platform.

Look out for the Khun Tan butterflies basking in the sun.

This quiant surprise of a place is well worth a visit, another one of those spots to kill some time in my sort of ‘comfort’.

maethastationWe had had a long ride through the day, so from here it was basically continuing on to meet the Highway 11 at Mae Ta, where we also visited the train station. Although not in quite such a stunning location, this station was equally well cared for and landscaped, where waiting for a train could only be a joy.

Heading back down the highway towards Chiang Mai, another 20 odd kilometres got us home to Lamphun, where Ally stopped for coffee and to get her long lost memory card. Next week Ally?

For more photos from this day please visit our photobucket album here.

Share
 

This was a very varied and enjoyable day out.

Heading out on the main road to Mae Rim, we took a left turn shortly after the intersection with the end of the Canal Road. Its a fork off the main road, before you get to Mae Rim.

After a short 5 minute ride down this quiet tree lined road you will see the entrance to the Northern Farm Project on your right hand side. Unfortunately a problem with formatting my memory card means that the photos I took are not available, but I shall be returning in the near future to do a much fuller report on this fascinating place. It is, in essence, a working museum of the craft and agriculture of  Northern Thailand.

As you enter the left of the main car parking area are a group of small buildings, each housing displays of various crafts, pottery, wood carving and weaving.

Whilst we were there we observed a craftsman working on a huge elephant carving in teak wood.

Further left of these buildings is a much larger, 2 storey building which is more of a static museum.

Then, to the rear of the compound is the agriculture area, where, if you book ahead, you can see demonstrations of ploughing with Buffalo ploughs, and even take part in planting rice in a paddy field and other such activities.

It is clearly popular as an educational trip destination for local schools but of equal interest to visiting tourists and there is some English translation on some of the information boards.

To the left of the front of the compound is a delightful Thai cafe, run by a very friendly Thai family, with a balcony over the large pond behind.

We discovered that it is an ideal spot for ornithologists with a stunning variety of birdlife inhabiting the area.

It certainly seems like the sort of place you where could spend a good part of the day, which plenty to see and do if you have an interest in historic culture. Oh, and its free.

100_4572 After a brief walk around and breakfast at the cafe we set off for our next destination, Wat Pa dara Phirom. To get there we turned right out of the car park and carried on down the road which follows the continuing canal from Chiang Mai, to a small intersection with a bridge.Turning left over the bridge and immediately left again going down the otherside of the canal took us to the very impressive Wat Pa Dara Phirom.

An alternative way to get here would be to go to Mae Rim and turn left at the Police Station, follow the road until you meet the bridge, crossing it and turning left.

princess This Temple wat developed in the 1890s, on land donated by a decendant of the great Lanna Princess, Phra Raja Jaya, born Chao Dara Rasmi, 11th daughter to Chao Inthawichayanon, one of the last rulers of Chiang Mai and the Lanna Kingdom. Doi Inthanon was named after this King. For an excellent history of Chao Dara Rasmi visit this link.

Or, alternatively, visit The Princess Chao Dara Rasmi museum in Mae Rim.

Although a relatively ‘new’ Temple, this development employs much original Lanna style, in accordance with the Princes’s wishes for the cultural heritage of the Lanna Kingdom to be preserved.

100_4589 The extensive compound holds various Temple buildings and Viharns and is has feast of historical relics spotted all around.

100_4580 The plush main Temple has exquisite decorations on the outside and equally extravagant decor inside, including chandeliars and a silver metal beaten image of the Princess.

100_4607 There is some remarkable art work inside the white Chedi to the right of the entrance, including an interesting ‘Buddha foot’ impression in the centre.

100_4625 The gardens are as stunning as the architecture with such a wide variety of trees, many of which were in glorious bloom when we visited.

For many more photos please visit our photo bucket album here.

From here we left, at around 2.30pm, and then had to decide which way to go, as the rest of the trip was unplanned.
Our first idea was to try and find a way back to Chiang Mai along mountain village roads.
100_4654 Turning left out of the Temple road, towards the mountain we soon came to another Temple at a small village,Wat Ampa Wan.

Though nowhere near the scale of Wat Pa Dara Phirom and not particularly striking in any immediate sense, it nonetheless had something in its overall atmosphere. For more photos please visit our photobucket album here.

100_4667 We then tried taking the side road that the Temple stood at the corner of and ended up on a mud track passing some local women harvesting Jack Fruit, who happily informed us that we could carry on and just keep turning left. Well we tried, but ended up returning the way we came. Still, it was fun.
We then turned left back at the Temple onto the road we had come up on and followed it up to where it meets the Samoeng Loop road, just before the Maesa Elephant Camp.
100_4677 Once on that road we stopped outside the Elephant camp for a fresh coffee, passing one of the camps elephants on its way home from work, before carrying on around the Loop that takes you around the western side of Doi Suthep and its neighboring peaks.

There is so much to see and find on this road that I think it will become a regular feature here as there is no way you can see it all in one day, let alone the 2 or 3 hours of decent light we had left ourselves.

100_4683 Look out for mountain streams;

a surreal Pumpkin house nestled amongst the trees on the left;

the Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens;

100_4687 a beautiful terraced landscaped resort which we discovered, on our next trip that way, has a Thai cookery school, with classes held in the wooden construction you see at the top of the garden area.

Perfect motorbiking territory, we stuck to the main road this time, first stopping at yet another stunning Temple complex that comprises of a lot more than you initially see from the road.

Wat Bong Yang Chalerm Prakiat.

100_4698 100_4695
This Temple is on the right hand side of the road, at the village around 10 minutes ride after the Queens Botanical Gardens, silly me forgot to get the name of the village.
100_4699 It is not until you get to the top of the entrance steps that you realise that the grounds then extend up the hillside behind the Temple and that there are many more steps to explore the whole site.

The views from the bottom level were quite something so I can only imagine how things would look from there as we decided that time was to short to do the full visit on this occasion.

100_4710 There is a wonderful Monks building to the left of the main Temple with a roof completely covered with a lush climber with orange flowers. There was also a large courtyard which then led through to a large school in the land adjacent to the temple grounds. For more photos, please visit our photobucket album here.

100_4722 Wat Tay Par Lam (my translator is not 100% sure on this as the sign is in Lanna language)

A little way up the road on the left is another Temple, small and cosy this Wat had some more of that wonderful Temple wall art.

Nothing grand to see here otherwise, but like many of the more inconspicuous Temples it has a very calm and welcoming atmosphere.

After a slightly embarrassing moment when a friendly young Monk had cause to point out that I had a large rip in the seat of my trousers we set of once more to complete the Loop. For more photos please visit our photobucket album here.

100_4737 Needing to get back to the business there wasn’t much time for stopping elsewhere other than to catch the many fantastic views along the way.

Indeed this is one of my favourite local routes at the moment especially as we discovered that it can lead to further, equally visually spectacular routes.

There will be another report up very soon on a more recent trip in which we concentrated on finding more points of interest along the Samoeng loop and visited Samoeng itself.

100_4739 For more photos from this day please visit our photobucket album here.

Share
 

doi-suthep-in-the-clouds

100_1014 Guarding Chiang Mai City and out lying areas, sitting near the top of the mountain, Doi Suthep, is this beautiful Temple complex with the best view over Chiang Mai that you are likely to find.

100_1015 There are varied versions of how and when this Temple was founded. It is said to have been founded in 1383. This appears to be when the first Chedi was built.

The temple has been much expanded, with even more extravagance and with many more holy shrines added. The first road to the temple was built in 1935.

The Legend of The White Elephant.

Legend has it that a Monk called Sumanathera from Sukhothai had a dream; he dreamt that  God told him to travel to Pang Cha in search of  a relic.

Following the instruction from his dream Sumanathera journeyed to Pang Cha where he is said to have found a bone, which many claim was a piece from the Buddha’s shoulder bone.

This relic is said to have had magical powers; not only did it glow but  it was also able to vanish, and could move  and duplicate itself. Sumanathera took the relic to King Dharmmaraja ,the  ruler of Sukhothai.

Dharmmaraja eagerly made offerings and held a ceremony on Sumanathera’s arrival. However the relic displayed no abnormal characteristics, and the disapointed King, told Sumanathera to keep it.

However, King Nu Naone of the Lanna Kingdom hearing of the relic called on  The monk to take it to him instead.  With Dharmmaraja’s permission, Sumanathera took the relic to the area now known as  Lamphun. Here the bone apparently split in two, one piece the same size, the other  smaller than the original. The smaller piece of bone was enshrined at a Temple in Suandok.

100_2104 The other piece , the King placed on the back of a white elephant which was released in the jungle. The elephant is said to have climbed up Doi Suthep, which in these  times called Doi Aoy Chang (Sugar Elephant Mountain). The elephant is said to have trumpeted three times before dying near the top of the mountain. Interpreting this as a sign  King Nu Naone ordered the construction of a Temple at the site.

Sadly much of the mysticism surrounding this Temple has been lost to tourism.

100_0997 A large area at the foot of the Temple grounds is taken up by gift stalls and for those not wanting to have to scale the long,  steep steps to the Temple it self, there is now a cable train available for just 10 baht per person.

100_1022 Within the Temple compound at the top there are coffee and snack shops and regular shows of traditional dancing and music by local school children.

There is still strict dress code here and you will be refused entry if your clothing is deemed inappropriate.

100_2133 Within the inner compound is the Chedi, surrounded by many many sacred Buddha images.

At times there is a Monk on duty in one of the Vihans where members of the public can enter to receive blessing from the Monk.

The courtyard outside looks over the City of Chiang Mai and much of its outlying villages and towns.

Getting there;

Many ways, the best of which is to rent yourself a motorcy and ride up yourself, or maybe even a bicycle if you are young and fit enough.

Or you can take a local red song taow(bus). Either you can take one of the specified buses that wait at points such as Wat Phra Singh. These buses are likely to cost you 200 baht upwards and the driver may put a limit on your time up there if you have arranged a two way trip, which they will encourage you to do.

My preferred method for the song taows is to take one from here to outside the front entrance to Chiang Mai University, which should cost 20 baht. Then a short walk from there, towards the mountain, is the bus stop for going up to the Temple, Royal Palce or Doi Pui Hilltribe village. If you are happy to wait for the bus to fill with passengers you will get up there for a further 40 baht.

Again they will encourage you to pay 80 baht two way but may place a time restriction. Be aware that only at the busiest times is there ever likely to be a shortage of buses waiting outside the temple to bring you down.

Share
 

CHIANG MAI > CHIANG RAI > DOI TUNG > MAESAI > GOLDEN TRIANGLE >
CHIANG KHONG > CHIANG RAI > CHIANG MAI
5 DAYS ON MOTORCY

So, maybe you are just a little bit crazy, like me, and fancy a tour with the freedom to choose where you go along the way.
Finding a motorcy for rent in Chiang Mai is easy, there are many outlets offering bikes rent, price dependent on what cc you select.
If you do fancy a trip like this one, select a bike of at least 110cc and if you happen to be traveling with a passenger then 125 or higher. These motorcys are great for buzzing around on but the common 100ccs struggle with getting up the mountains.

DAY ONE>>TO CHIANG RAI

Our first leg was Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai. We figured just getting to Chiang Rai was good enough for the first day. Its a 3-4 hour journey on the bus, so we knew that it would be maybe double that on the bike. Seeing that they aren’t really built for long distance touring, its advisable to rest the bike as often as possible.
Our first rest stop was at a beautiful spot in the first mountain range, just short of Pong Nam Hot Springs.

national-park-watermarked

Its great fun flying along the superhighway and up and down the winding mountain passes.

mountain-view-watermarkedThe road, on the whole, is very good and for the most part was quite empty.

Still it doesn’t pay to get complacent as coaches and freight trucks often appear from nowhere, traveling at ridiculous speeds and having scant respect for smaller vehicles.

As we reached Fang, the heavens opened and there was monsoon like rain for the next 2 hours, all the way to Chiang Rai. It may have been sensible to have stopped and found somewhere to stop for the night and carry on the next day. But hell, this is the sort of thing that makes me feel alive.
Stopping to buy refuse bags, that we cut and used as some protection against the rain, we pressed on slowly through the downpour, arriving in Chiang Rai at around 6.15pm, looking and feeling like a couple of drowned rats.
We then had a 20 minute ride around town trying to find somewhere to stay, before asking at the market and being directed to a guest house.

guest-house-chiang-rai-watermarkedThe guest house had a very nice friendly feel to it, had a range of accommodation, from dorm beds to air con rooms. We settled on a double room with fan.
Chiang Rai town is a lot smaller than Chiang Mai and much less developed, and in the rain, appears to shut down at 10pm.
So we spent that night relaxing at the guest house which has a varied menu of Thai and western dishes at very good prices.

Day 2

meeting-martinwatermarkedHaving breakfast, I was joined by another guest, Martin, a German guy who had been living in America for 6 years. We discovered that we were heading in roughly the same direction and struck up a plan to travel together.Martin was a funny guy, after we convinced him to hire a motorcy, ( having never ridden one before), he then took an awfully long time tying his bags on, being somewhat overcautious. But each to his own:).

Before heading off towards Maesai; our next target for overnight stay with Boons family; we called in at the Temple next door. In future travels I will be more meticulous in recording names of places, but I hadn’t got it in my head to do this site then.

temple-chiang-rai-watermarked temple-chiang-rai-2-watermarked

Pretty nervous about the motorcy to begin with,Martin soon got the hang of it. Trouble was that he neglected to top up the fuel first. As we set off from Chiang Rai and stopped for fuel, we had another 20 minutes wait whilst Martin untied his bags so that he could lift the seat to fill up, and then re-tie everything.Maesai is not so far from Chiang Rai, about 2 hours by motor cy, and Martin agreed to our detour to find Wat Doi Tung. (to continue this tour follow this link)

Share
 

royal-palace-entrance

Taking the signposted left turn it was onwards and upwards, on the magnificently scenic mountain road. This road whilst being in good condition, gets very steep and winding in places and at times was quite scary, especially when the rain came again.

As we reached Doi Tung Royal Palace Gardens, we stopped to shelter from the rain and had coffee. Here we discovered that our planned onward journey along the back mountain road round to Maesai was considered too dangerous due to military disputes between the Hilltribes and the Burmese.

I’m told that the gardens are well worth a visit too, but will have to confirm that in the future as we were focused on Wat Doi Tung.
1st-temple-doi-tung-watermarked 1st-temple-doi-tung-2-watermarked When the rain receded we carried on, very carefully, to our destination.

There are actually two Temples close to each other, Wat Doi Tung being at the very top of the mountain road.

The first was, for me, slightly more impressive architecturally.

But Wat Doi Tung, hidden away amongst the lush green mountain forest, doused in a thick mist definitely held the greater spiritual feel to it.

wat-doi-tungnow wat-doi-tung-2-watermarked Beautiful , but not so big, after about 40 minutes there we decided to head back down and on to Maesai.
The last bits of the road to the Temple had been particularly steep and winding and, with the wet roads, the ride back down was quite frightening in places, but we did ok.

Further down the skies brightened and the roads dried out and….I got a flat back tyre.

doi-tung-repair-watermarkedBoon went ahead with Martin to find some help. I carried on down, walking the bike, until they returned just 10 minutes later with a foot pump, borrowed from a repair shop nearby. After putting enough air in so that I could ride it slowly, we took the bike down to the workshop, where a very friendly guy replaced the inner tube in 10 minutes.Whilst waiting, some of the mechanics friends offered us local Thai ‘whiskey’. Not wanting to appear impolite, I accepted a small glass of the clear liquid, that tasted more like schnapps. Just as well that I just had the 1….it was extremely potent.

So off we went again, back to the main road for Maesai.

It was getting dark as we motored onwards, taking a right turn, about 20 minutes down the road, before Maesai. This road would take us to one of Somboons uncles houses. We hadnt gone far down this narrow country lane before…

.ahhhhh…flat front tyre.

This time Boon phoned his uncle, who sent Boons brothers out with a pick-up truck and we then completed our journey to Boons uncles, in the quiet village of San Thanon Gai.

boons-uncles-watermarkedWhen we arrived there were many people there sitting outside the house, under a rough lean-to, drinking Thai whiskey. It was an interesting night, we received a warm welcome and the various people did their best to chat with us through Somboon.The striplight we were sitting under attracted hundreds of winged insects.

After I was unable to hide my discomfort as the insects constantly buzzed around my head, Boons uncle fetched a large bowl of water. Holding it up to the swarm he caught many but they were soon replaced by more.

In the end the whiskey made me care less.

Looking down at the bowl full of drowned insects I nudged Martin and joked, ‘tomorrows breakfast’.

Martin chose to sleep outside in his hammock, whilst Boon and I slept in the living room an cushions laid out by his family, under a large mosquito net.

DAY 3

boons-bro-watermarkedWaking early with a headache I joined boons aunt and younger brother as the boy prepared for school.
Even in these poor villages the families do all they can to ensure that their children dress smart for school.
Boons grandfather was next up and asked me to wake Boon. We then sat chatting with his grandfather for some time, before taking the bike to a nearby repair shop run by two Thai women.
By the time we got back Martin was up, and breakfast was ready.
fried-flies-watermarkedSure enough the insects from the night before had been de-winged and fried up.

Tucking in, I actually found them to be quite a tasty snack. I did draw a line at grilled toads, caught from the damp forecourt earlier. But here in the rural North, money is scarce and they eat what is available.

houses-san-thanon1-watermarkedAfter breakfast we called in at the next ‘uncle’ who lived in one of the traditional wooden stilted houses, where another uncle was busy woodworking. This family was obviously better off and we were even able to get a heated shower and a more substantial breakfast. We stayed for nearly an hour, during which time I was offered a similar house down the lane.

houses-san-thanon-2-watermarked Off for our next tour destination, Chiang Khong. Our route took us through The Golden Triangle and we made this a lunch stop.
Laos, Burma and Thailand all meet at this point, on either sides of the Mekong river and the views are fantastic. The riverside town is very touristy, and has an almost British seaside resort feel to it. Still, turn away from the stalls and look over the river, as we did, eating lunch at a riverside food stall cooperative.

mekong-watermarked


to continue this tour please follow this link.

Share
 

Today we have 3 rooms still available.

Room 3 a spacious  double room, with cable TV and a view of Doi Suthep at just 200 baht a night.

Room 4 another double room, with similar view of the mountain , also 200 baht a night.

and Room 6 our bargain single room for just 100 baht a night.

So if you’re looking for an above average, budget room in the heart of the Old City, come check us out. All our room prices are exactly that, per room not per person.

Share
 

Maybe something we should have done when the family were here, I think the kids would have loved it. This day out was essentially to take advantage of the promotion for the newly opened, state of the art Aquarium, which meant you could get 2 tickets for the price of one. As there is a different price for locals and foreigners,(290 for locals, 520 for farang; this is for all inclusive tickets, you can buy tickets for the Zoo only or Aquarium seperately)) Somboon and I went with our friends and regular customers,  Leo and Par, so that we got the full advantage of the deal.

Having always been on the anti-zoo side it took me a while to agree to go but I decided that I should take a look so as to be able to make a proper decision on my view of this facility. Accepting that in an age where many species face extinction, there may be a place for such institutions so that younger generations may get to truly appreciate the glory of animal nature, I went with an open mind.

As you enter the exhibition you pass several small aquariums with all manner of sealife on show. And then its onto the massive walkthru section where you see the bigger fish and sharks to.

Here follows my report on our visit and I will save my conclusion until the end of this write-up.

There is no doubt that this Zoo is a beautiful place to visit, set in some very well kept grounds at the foot of Doi Suthep.  If you were so minded you could easily spend a whole day just enjoying the gardens, with so many quiet spots to sit and simply enjoy the surroundings.

The first wildlife we came across were the Flamingos. Shunning the shuttle buses we walked on through the picturesque gardens.

Leo and Par got very friendly with the Hippos.

A little further on by the Giraffe enclosure, I discovered that in a short space of time I had managed to mislay my ticket, and realizing that I would probably have to produce it to gain entry to the Aquarium I had to return to the ticket office. The staff were very helpful and i was shown back into the Zoo by the supervisor who radioed ahead to confirm my ticket purchase with the Aquarium. Jumping on the shuttle to the Aquarium I looked out for the others, who joined me as the shuttle arrived at the Giraffe compound.It was quite a way round to the Aquarium so I was happy for the shuttle ride.

The Aquarium itself is set in a large area with a man made lake with a long bridge walkway to the main building. You do indeed have to produce your Aquarium ticket before gaining access to the bridge.

Without doubt this fascinating experience was pretty fantastic. With supposedly the longest walk through tunnel in the world you do feel like you get an insight into the underwater world of ocean life.

As you enter the exhibition you pass many small aquariums with all manner of sea life on display. And then it is on to the massive walk-thru section where you get to see the bigger fish and sharks too.

And now I have to pay homage to the makers of cartoon movies such as Finding Nemo. I never quite appreciated the cartoon makers skills in accurate portrayal of their characters, until I got this snap of a large ray passing over us

Slightly disappointing was the absence of Hammerhead sharks pictured in the Aquarium advertising, but that apart I was well impressed.

Exiting the Aquarium, we carried on around the Zoo that certainly has a wide variety of animals and birds on display.

In conclusion; I still hold with my aversion to zoos on the basis that the animals are invariably kept in enclosures that do not allow them anything near their natural environment. It does appear that the Zoo management is making some moves towards improving this situation with certain species with the building of ‘Gibbon Island’ and a massive new Aviary.

Most upsetting for me was seeing the Gibbons presently housed in relatively small and barren cages, set in amongst the trees. I can imagine that this must be torture for these intelligent creatures, being able to see and not touch.

Also the Asian Tiger pacing back and forth was not a happy sight. Neither was the discover that the fascinating Binturong that I saw marooned on a pedestal display with just a small hut for shelter is in fact nocturnal.

As previously stated, there is no disputing that the grounds of the Zoo appear to be well managed and it is a beautiful place to visit just for that. You will need to make your own decision on the ethics of such a facility.

To see many more photos of Chiang Mai Zoo and aquarium follow this link.

Share
 

This tour took place in January and involved myself and Somboon traveling by motorbike, (150cc JRD Chopper), and Somboons father who traveled by bus.

Riding time from Chiang Mai to Thaton, approximately 5 hours, with stops.

Bus journey time approximately 4 hours.

Day 1

It should first be acknowledged that having investing a slightly more powerful bike, with a much more comfortable seat, this trip was much more enjoyable and traveling times cut tremendously compared to using the less powerful motorcycle.

We left Chiang Mai at around 12.30pm. Our original target was Mae Ai, where Boons father hoped to find an old Monk from his past to advise him on the auspiciousness of starting a new business.

For the most part, the road to Thaton is very good and the ride up there was fantastic, going through some of the most spectacular scenery I have seen yet.

The lush greens of the Thai mountain forests never cease to take my breath away, and there is so much of it on the road to Thaton. Being in an almost constant state of ‘WOW’, it was quite a quiet trip, mostly because words were useless in the face of such natural beauty.

We stopped at a quiet little place called Tam Daang, about halfway through the roadworks, for a rest and a coffee.

Photobucket Photobucket

And a little later we stopped again at a quiet one street town, Chai Prahkan, where we got something to eat at a local cafe.

PhotobucketNot far down the road from here was a most impressive mountain view, that I’m guessing from my map was Doi Ang.

It must be said that if scenery is your thing, this trip could be made a lot longer, because there is so much along this road that just begs for you to stop and soak it in.

Aware that Boons father would be waiting for us at Mae Ai, we pressed on, arriving there at around 5pm.

All our inquiries suggested that there were no guest houses in Mae Ai so we then made the further 10 km journey ahead to Thaton.

Thaton sits on the Kok river right next to the Thai/Burmese border. Don’t expect much night life as this is a quiet place that shuts down early, although the guest houses will generally serve you as long as you are up.

We found a very pleasant guest house close to the river.

From the Thaton Boat office it is possible to take a boat trip to Chiang Rai, but this was unfortunately out of our budget and time scale for this trip.

Tired from the trip up , after eating at a local cafe, we spent the evening chilling at the Guest House and took an early night.

Day 2

PhotobucketUp early as ever, I took a stroll up onto the bridge to get some shots of the river as the sun rose and was rapidly accosted by many smiling Hill tribe ladies selling their wares.

With a limited budget for this trip I stuck to buying one friendship bracelet off each of the ladies who laughed a lot as I haggled and resisted all their attempts to seduce me into buying the more expensive clothes items.

Boons father had been unable to locate the Monk he was looking for, who had apparently moved on to a Temple in Chiang Rai. So, after breakfast, he left us to catch a bus on. For myself and Boon it was time to take a hike up the hill to check out the Temple. On the way up the grass path you pass some very colourful characters set on a grey/white rock formation.

Passing a delightful pagoda you turn the corner at the top to the main Temple grounds, where you find many more amazing statues, many of which you will have seen from a distance from the street below. The Temple itself is surprisingly modest but the buildings that go with it and their lay out are quite impressive.

The grounds are quite extensive , so have your walking legs on, but I assure you the views are worth it.

Further along the mountain ridge is yet another Temple and we walked back down to get the motorbike and take a ride up the narrow mountain road. On the way we stopped at the site of what appears to be a newly built, Indian style Temple, making another big impression on the local skyline. It also had a quaint shop, come exhibition hut in its grounds.

Stopping here briefly to rest the bike and take in some more views of nearby mountain villages, we then carried on to the Temple at the end of the track.

The Temple here ad a very stately looking building to house its Monks and Novices with a long treetops walkway, on concrete stilts, offering yet more amazing views.

If the ground between the trees was not so barren brown looking I’d question whether this could be Eden.

It was so cool and peaceful up there and we stopped for some time, taking a drink at the cafe in the car park and watching a Thai family offering prayers.

It was about 2pm before we got back on the bike for the long ride home.

PhotobucketWith a few rest stops on the way; including a roadside Buddha; a wooden Temple near Chai Prahkan and an elephant farm not so far from Mae Rim, where we also caught the sunset; we were home for around 8pm.

I feel truly blessed to have the opportunity to go on such journeys as this and can only hope that these notes and photos may inspire you to grab the chance to do the same when you can.

As with all posts on this site, there are many more photos in our photobucket.com album here …

Share
© 2011 Travel and Life in Thailand

You can find literally hundreds of other photographs in our photobucket album

Suffusion theme by Sayontan Sinha