Guarding Chiang Mai City and out lying areas, sitting near the top of the mountain, Doi Suthep, is this beautiful Temple complex with the best view over Chiang Mai that you are likely to find.
There are varied versions of how and when this Temple was founded. It is said to have been founded in 1383. This appears to be when the first Chedi was built.
The temple has been much expanded, with even more extravagance and with many more holy shrines added. The first road to the temple was built in 1935.
The Legend of The White Elephant.
Legend has it that a Monk called Sumanathera from Sukhothai had a dream; he dreamt that God told him to travel to Pang Cha in search of a relic.
Following the instruction from his dream Sumanathera journeyed to Pang Cha where he is said to have found a bone, which many claim was a piece from the Buddha’s shoulder bone.
This relic is said to have had magical powers; not only did it glow but it was also able to vanish, and could move and duplicate itself. Sumanathera took the relic to King Dharmmaraja ,the ruler of Sukhothai.
Dharmmaraja eagerly made offerings and held a ceremony on Sumanathera’s arrival. However the relic displayed no abnormal characteristics, and the disapointed King, told Sumanathera to keep it.
However, King Nu Naone of the Lanna Kingdom hearing of the relic called on The monk to take it to him instead. With Dharmmaraja’s permission, Sumanathera took the relic to the area now known as Lamphun. Here the bone apparently split in two, one piece the same size, the other smaller than the original. The smaller piece of bone was enshrined at a Temple in Suandok.
The other piece , the King placed on the back of a white elephant which was released in the jungle. The elephant is said to have climbed up Doi Suthep, which in these times called Doi Aoy Chang (Sugar Elephant Mountain). The elephant is said to have trumpeted three times before dying near the top of the mountain. Interpreting this as a sign King Nu Naone ordered the construction of a Temple at the site.
Sadly much of the mysticism surrounding this Temple has been lost to tourism.
A large area at the foot of the Temple grounds is taken up by gift stalls and for those not wanting to have to scale the long, steep steps to the Temple it self, there is now a cable train available for just 10 baht per person.
Within the Temple compound at the top there are coffee and snack shops and regular shows of traditional dancing and music by local school children.
There is still strict dress code here and you will be refused entry if your clothing is deemed inappropriate.
Within the inner compound is the Chedi, surrounded by many many sacred Buddha images.
At times there is a Monk on duty in one of the Vihans where members of the public can enter to receive blessing from the Monk.
The courtyard outside looks over the City of Chiang Mai and much of its outlying villages and towns.
Getting there;
Many ways, the best of which is to rent yourself a motorcy and ride up yourself, or maybe even a bicycle if you are young and fit enough.
Or you can take a local red song taow(bus). Either you can take one of the specified buses that wait at points such as Wat Phra Singh. These buses are likely to cost you 200 baht upwards and the driver may put a limit on your time up there if you have arranged a two way trip, which they will encourage you to do.
My preferred method for the song taows is to take one from here to outside the front entrance to Chiang Mai University, which should cost 20 baht. Then a short walk from there, towards the mountain, is the bus stop for going up to the Temple, Royal Palce or Doi Pui Hilltribe village. If you are happy to wait for the bus to fill with passengers you will get up there for a further 40 baht.
Again they will encourage you to pay 80 baht two way but may place a time restriction. Be aware that only at the busiest times is there ever likely to be a shortage of buses waiting outside the temple to bring you down.
We had an amusing start, when we got quarter of the way from home and realised that we’d left the train tickets behind. We went on our motorcy and sidecart so that Boons friend Son could come along and take the bike home for us.
Arriving at Kaow San, somewhat shaken but also totally exhilarated, our destination was somewhat of a let down.
Many of the cafes reflect the presence of these people with their prices but it was possible, we found, to search out more reasonably priced outlets and some very good food.
Luckily they were able to sort the problem in about half an hour….but be aware that this is not an uncommon problem with the Thai bus tours.
