Felt like a marathon today, most of which was, as usual, most enjoyable. But let me say one thing about going up to the top of Doi Inthanon in rainy season….**#@@**##……[edited for family viewing].
3This weeks meeting point was in Hang Dong, at the Kow Soi Restaurant opposite the Hang Dong Police station, 9.30am.
Allys doing her best to make sure I’m not complaining about my empty stomach all the time.

After an excellent Kow Soi breakfast we headed off toward San Pa Tong and turned right onto the 1013 to Mae Wang.

6The title says ‘via’ Mae Wang, but in actuality Mae Wang was a short detour to see yet another stunning reservoir.
Close to large reservoir, which, like Huay Tung Taow, has many cafes and shelters on the waters edge, is a beautiful ‘shrine’.

Up a easy set of steps, this shrine features many model Chickens, and two horses reared up on their hind legs.

13Close by is also another small shrine featuring three model wooden Thai houses.
That detour done, it was back on the 1013.

Some way along there I spotted a sign for Mae Sa Pok Waterfall and called Ally back so we could investigate.
Well worth it! More of those stunning terraced rice fields on the way.
When we reached the end of the track I wondered if we’d been duped by the sign, when we spotted a very cute waterfall, pretty, but not what we’d expected.
34Fortunately, a group of young girls, busy washing empty drinks cans for recycling, pointed us to the path to the main event.
Another lush forest track, just a couple of hundred metres and….WoW!!.
Not only was there the sublime beauty of the waterfall in the middle of glistening green forestation, but also some wonderful bird life, no doubt attracted by the insects brought out by the damp, and fish washing down with the strong water flow too, no doubt.
45Although its not the biggest I’ve seen it rates as one of the most beautiful, with a touch of magical quality about it.
Back to the road we were on, Allys reliable directions tell me that it changes from the 1013 to the 5118 after Mae Win.

Turning left out of the waterfall road we carried on to Khun Wang. Here you can find the Khun Wang Environment and Natural School. Quite an immense growing set up.
96Again, as well as the many rice fields, you see so much more going on up here, with huge nursery set-ups sprawling all over many hills.
Carrying on along this wonderfull road,

which varied from newly laid tarmac to potholed tarmac that required a lot of weaving to and fro,

97we rode on to the Doi Inthanon Shop, through rain that got quite heavy for a while. There we had lunch and coffee and for a while the rain had stopped, but by the time we got going, so had it once again.
Honestly I can’t believe we carried on up, through the clouds and worsening rains; which were exacerbated by strong gusting winds. But battle on we did. I was hopelessly unprepared and got saturated.
My legs were threatening to cramp up and my whole body was shaking by the time we reached the coffee shops at the top.

DSC_2241 It took me quite a while to stop the shakes and the coffee was very much needed.
Even my hope of buying a dry t shirt to change into was dashed, with the souvenir shop being closed.

And to add insult to injury I had been charged 100 baht at the summit check point, for the pleasure of putting myself through that hell. Hey ho, beats sitting at home.
Ally kept assuring me that the views up there are amazing, some of the best you’ll ever see. Even tried to tell me that there are two massive Chedis on the way up to the summit, “stunning, beautiful they are…right there!!” Staring at thick white cloud hugging the hillsides, I told her that I didn’t believe her. Whats more, at that point I couldn’t have cared less if the Taj Mahal had been moved there.
101Still, although we still had to go back down through the icey cold squalls, it wasn’t so long before we were down to Wachirathan Waterfall   in much more pleasant conditions, and after that short visit, on our way home.
On the 108 to Chiang Mai, not so far from Chom Tong, the highway was blocked for quite a way by huge numbers of Lamyai growers turning up at a big fruit buyers warehouse.
I said goodbye to Ally at San Pa Tong, where I turned right for Lamphun.
Looking forward to our next ride.

For many more photos from this trip, please visit our photobucket album here.

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Just when you might think we couldn’t better the last day out….this one will take some beating, involving, as it did, a stunning forest waterfall, more off road mountain tracks with stunning views and lots of fun as we had to fight our way through some very thick mud.

Its on days like this that I start thinking I should get a bike like Allys.

This week our chosen meeting place was Mee Mees cafe at Meechok Plaza.

This week I made sure I arrived early and had breakfast whilst waiting for Ally.

hillmanhunterWhile I was there Roger, and old ‘customer’ friend, from my Brick Road Cafe days, appeared, in his Hillman Hunter. He was just preparing to leave Chiang Mai and head back to the UK for a couple of months.

We had a good chat and when Ally arrived at 9.30am we all drank coffee before Ally and I headed off on this weeks ride.

We took  the 1001, 121 and the back way along the river road to the 107 and Mae Rim.

31Just after Mae Rim centre we turned off left on the 3009 riding up the hill as the rain started.

We had to shelter for a while but then carried on up to Pankled Coffee, which sits at the turn off for Mork Fa Waterfall.

Whilst we enjoyed coffee and lunch the heavens opened again. In the end it died down enough for us to carry on, all beit donning raincoats, and we took the small road up to Doi Suthep Pui National Park.

My entrance fee, not having a local ID, was 70 baht.

39It was 350 metres walk through the forest, which, in the rain, was at its lushest.

On the way we spotted a sign that tells you to ‘Please beleive alarm sound’.

We asked at the ticket kiosk later, wondering whether there was an actual alarm and what it was for. Turns out it is a slightly misleading translation with the actual meaning being to take note of the sound of surging water due to the risk of flash floods over the waterfall.

47Ally had previously beleived it to mean to listen out for falling trees.

I would say listen out for both, they are equally a significant risk, especially during this season.

We decided that it was too wet ant slippy to take the nature trail and see the Bat Cave but we did get to the Waterfall…..fantastic.

45 In better weather i”d have taken a dip, same as some braver local girls there at the time.

By the time we got back to the bikes the rain had got heavier and it was time for the leg-ins too.

We then headed on through the National Park, along a track that does not always appear on Allys GPS. She has been this way before so we relied on her memory.

As the rain continued and the track got progressively worse in places we had to decide whether or not to carry on. After on stretch that had been quite lumpy and slippery, Ally declared that if her memory served correctly it didnt get much worse after that.

Well I for one am quite glad that her memory was well off on that one. Had her memory served her correctly then we might have turned back, and as messy as it got, I wouldn’t have missed it for the world.

55It took us through some fantastic scenery, and this is where the ‘Real Lanna Land’ comes in.

Another lesson for me, Ally tells me that Lan means million…and Na is a rice field… Lanna, the land of a million rice fields…and we saw a fair few of them on this ride.

I have heard opinions about the Hilltribes being lazy, what I saw on this ride says that cannot be true.

76bestThe undulating landscape is transformed, in a stunningly beautiful way, by intricate terraced rice paddys.

It really is something to behold. There is much more agriculture going on besides, we passed many dragon fruit plantations, and other ‘nursery’ operations.

DSC_1933It was worth battling our way through the deep mud we found waiting on several corners of the track through the hills.

At the worst, I nearly lost one of my shoes and came pretty close to blowing my engine as the bike sank low into the thick red mud and it took all my strength to push it through.

58Then, here in the middle of nowhere, we come across the electric guys, fixing lines.

This meant that electric cable lay strewn across the track and we had to trust that we wouldnt get electricuted riding over it….oh Joy!

Eventually we made it through and came back out, close to the Buddha on Pink Lotus, onto the road down to Mae Rim.

It had been a long ride, 16.45pm by the time we got to that point.

26The weather had dried out half way through the ride but as we headed home the thick black clouds ahead said more rain for sure.

We parted company at the 121 and I headed home to Lamphun riding through an horrendous storm. But as heavy as the rain was, it still couldnt remove all of that thick red mud.

For many more photos of the rice fields and more , please visit our photobucket album here.

And check out Allys’ here.

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TO WAT ANALYO, PHAYAO….EASY THERE, CRAZY BACK

phayao-map
OverviewLength of trip; 2 days

Accommodation used; Motel

Approximate overall cost of trip for 3 people; 3000 baht , including peripheral spending.

Start time from Chiang Mai; around 8.30am

Arrival at Phayao; around 6.30pm

Departure from Phayao; around 8.30am

Arrival back in Chiang Mai; around 9.30pm

Places visited; Day 1: Un named waterfall…marked on map above, approx 30 kms before Phayao

Wat Analyo, approx 10 kms before Phayao(Look out for the signposts)

Phayao

Day 2:

Riding through Chae Son Valley

Chae Hom

Kiu Lom Lake

TO WAT ANALYO………LARS AND HIS BIG CHOPPER

larsThis was just 3 weeks ago, in the first week of April, when Lars, a Danish plumber, with a penchant for interior design, had been visiting for a couple of weeks and was keen to get out and see more of Northern Thailand.

dave Boon had quite a busy schedule with his business, but we decided to fit in a couple of days traveling with Lars, who had turned up with Conga Dave, an old friend from the UK. Shame Dave had already gone home really.

lars-chopper Lars had been out and rented a 250cc Honda Chopper.By all accounts very comfortable and certainly handled the hills a touch better than my 150cc JRD., but then I did have a passenger.

So off we went, heading east to Phayao, mainly in search of Wat Analyo, the replica of Buddhas original Temple in India.

TO WAT ANALYO…….RIDING THROUGH THE APRIL SUN , IN NEED OF A WATERFALL

We gave ourselves all day to get there, being that this was April and the temperature was up in the high 30′s. Riding at an easy 50kph for most of the way we also allowed ourselves several rest stops, grabbing some shade and drinks.
Heading out on the road to Chiang Rai and then taking a right turn, shortly after a favourite coffee stop at Pong Nam Ron, we rode through some stunning mountain roads, and encountered the occassional early Song Kran player throwing water as we passed.

As long as you’re ready enough for it, to avoid crashing on the suddenly slippy road, its quite refreshing in such hot weather, having a bucket of water thrown in your face.

13 By midday we were pretty much melting and on the hunt for a waterfall where we might be able to cool down.

waterfall-4 It took a while but eventually we came apon a beautifully refreshing spot, around 30kms from Phayao, and free! Always the best.

waterfal-7 We joined many Thais, including a bunch of village kids who had been taken there by a group of Buddhist Monks, soaking in the natural beauty, and getting soaked in the wonderfully cooling water that gushed down the mountainside.

TO WAT ANALYO……….

The waterfall was such fun and so refreshing that it was difficult to drag ourselves away .
But onwards we went. Back out in the searing heat, and before we hit Phayao, came across signs to our target, Wat Analyo.

Wat Analyo actually encompasses 3 different sites in close proximity.

analy08 analyo-7 The first is entered via an old stone stairway, which, apart from the very first few steps, which take you under a very impressive archway, is long but not so steep.

analyo-4There are actually several small Temples of differing styles on this first site as well as quite an array of impressive stone statues, set amongst the mountain forest trees it is so peaceful, apart from the hums and buzzs of the forest insect life.

analyo9 If ever I take the plunge and sign up as a Monk , this is definitely high on the list of places I’d like to do it.

analyo10 So quiet, and so much beauty, both the architecture and the scenery, some great views of the surrounding countryside .

Across the road from this site is a clearing in the trees where you will find another sitting Buddha of the giant variety.

budha-analyo This Buddha was obviously very old and possibly in need of renovation, and looking across to the third sight where the replica of Buddhas Temple can be found.
analyo-15 Completely different in design to Thai Temples this blue/white stone edifice casts an imposing feature on the landscape. It is set in manicured landscaped gardens , another must for anyone interested in the Buddhist theme.
From here it was on the short distance to Phayao, a seemingly rich town that sits on the edge of a huge lake.

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buddha-mekon-watermarked These giant Buddhas are quite awe inspiring, especially in settings such as this.
waterfallnow After a fuel stop at Chiang Saen, there was another mountain range to cross and we took the opportunity to take another detour, to a waterfall tucked away in the forests, next to yet another Temple.

Unfortunately I neglected to note the name but it was about half way to Chiang Kong, from the Golden Triangle, and signposted for a right turn.

monkeysnow It wasn’t so big but was beautiful and the Temple next door had some very old stonework, including stone monkeys climbing up the walls.

mountain-village-2now A little further on , up in the mountains we stopped to take a look at a couple of the mountain villages.
mountain-village-3-watermarked Saw some amazing views, houses,people and became centre of attention for many school kids on their way home. The kids loved posing for photos and gave some great examples of the famous Thai smiles. mountain-village-4-watermarked

Eventually we made our way to Chiang Khong, passing through the most stunning views, and booked in to The Green Tree Guest House. Boon and I had been here before on an overnight trip and found it to be a very friendly little place with good food at local Thai prices and comfy rooms for just 100baht a night.

Both Boon and I were shattered from so much travel on the bike and ended up having a very early night whilst martin explored the night life in Chiang Khong. For such a small place the local entertainment was by all accounts quite good, with a good splattering of bars and live music.

DAY 4.
The next morning we headed off fairly early as Martin needed to be back in Chiang Rai for 1.30 to catch a bus down south.
The road from Chiang Khong carries on back round to Chiang Rai through yet more unbelievably beautiful countryside.
We made it back to Chiang Rai at almost spot on 1.30 and said our goodbyes to Martin, after Boon helped him get a ticket for the bus which, as it turned out, didn’t leave for another couple of hours.
We have since received e mail confirmation from Martin, now back in the States, that his little tour with us was the highlight of his trip, which is most heartwarming.
wat-rong-khun-1watermarked As for Boon and I, it was off to visit the famous White Temple, Wat Rong Khun. This Temple is the lifetime project of Thai artist, Chalermchai Kositpipat, and is quite spectacular in its design.
The entirely white stonework is adorned with thousands of tiny mirror tiles. Some say that this is meant for the visitor to see the Buddha spirit reflected within themselves. I have to admit to feeling slightly let down with its location, being right next to an intersection and the distinct lack of Monks, other than the few amongst the visitors. wat-rong-kuhn-2-watermarked
Apparently the attraction is particularly designed to be viewed in the moonlight and it is said that the effect is well worth seeing…another plan for the future.

thai-house1watermarked1 Still in no rush to get home we then went 40 km east off the route home to find another ‘Uncle’,another quiet rural setting and a fantastic Thai house where we were greeted,fed and boarded for the night. thai-house-2watermarked

Before taking to our beds we went out on the bike for a look around and stopped at a nearby bar for a soft drink. Whilst we were there a middle aged Thai couple came in with a plate of barbecued meat of some sort. Seeing me, they called us over and offered us some of the meat. Wanting to at least know what it was, I asked before accepting. Having been told that it was rat, and once told could see from the shapes that this was likely true, i went ahead and accepted the offer. Its not something I would make a habit of eating but I have to say that it was quite delicious, somewhere in between pork and beef in flavour.

DAY 5

In the morning we were breakfasted on chicken and rice before we set off for home.

mountain-riverwatermarked We took a steady ride back,taking the loop from Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai, through Wiangpapao, rather than back the way we came, its much shorter.
We made several stops again to rest ourselves and the bike. The recent heavy rains showed in the mountain rivers.
butterlywatermarked Another of the delights of living here, for me, is the huge variety of butterfly’s and i am doing my best to gather a collection, by photo only, no way I would kill these beauties.
Although the rivers were full and murky brown from the rains, that day the sun shone and it was a thoroughly enjoyable ride home to good old Chiang mai.

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